Gluttony, gourmet and gripes

Press, 1 August 1986, Page 19

Gluttony, gourmet and gripes

•"Review

KEN STRONGMAN

For half an hour on Saturday afternoons TVNZ is currently presenting a true choice, catering for very different types of people. "Sport on One” vies for attention with “Fresh and Fancy Fare” on Two. This is the latest local venture which has clearly been made to appeal abroad as well as at home, and it L likely to be very successful. It is a rich, sumptuous, entirely splendid celebration of food, a sort of culinary ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. - Rarely is there a person in sight. Instead, a pair of disembodied hands make magic passes over a miscellany of Ingredients. The entire programme is made up of lingering sights of the food in such tantalising close-ups that all understanding of size disappears. This must be

a marvellous programme for those who simply like food, who like to look at it or ■ even think about it when they are not eating it It is narrated by Gordon Jackson, with the in-, evitable reminders of “Come in •/ four . five,” "Where are you, three nine?” Perhaps. Bodie and Doyle are doing the .cooking. He is a good narrator, although at times he does cover his voice In treacle, and makes it ooze out like a Caledonian Jack Palance. Last week-end, in a programme on poultry, he also made a complete meal out of saying “flesh” and “thighs.” He also said “Serve half a bird to each guest

dressed with the thickened glaze.” Even the most friendly guest might object On reflection, it is difficult to be sure about “Fresh and Fancy Fare.” It is very good indeed and might just be turning cooking into an arts programme. On the other hand, it could be prompting a . disturbing mixture of. ‘ gluttony and gourmandising. To watch it is to feel that weight is going on hand over fist. The calories seem to jump out of the box. The only way is to flip over to the other channel during the interval to use up a few vicarious calories on the sport In the midst of every-

thing else finishing, so also is the perennially local favourite “Fair Go,” which has become increasingly polished under the guidance of Philip Alpers. He looks a little like an ageing drop-out from “Miami Vice” but has a very composed television manner, -with the promise of a burst of effervescence. In spite of a revolting range of ties, he looks equal to anything a live programme might throw at him. The final programme was about gripes, after pushing on with the dreadful tale of AAC, the timber preservative. They did a good job with this horror story, but relished the word “rotting” as

much as Gordon Jackson rolled his tongue round “flesh.” It was worthwhile, but like some of its other intricate stories, it did go on a bit It Its strength was shown in an item on the dreadful, virtually non-existent radio reception in Whataroa, which one of the inhabitants regarded as "a basic right” She had a point “Fair Go” persuaded the director-gen-eral of Radio New Zealand, Beverley Wakeham, to appear. She did, and was quite open about the low priorities given to such non-commercial interests as this. She could hardly be otherwise. More important, though, we were able to hear some

impressive double talk. “Currently, the reality of the broadcasting situation ... and “other elements in this scenario.” Think about it This is the DG of a system which is more than a little dependent on words. ’ ' * .

Anyway, in spite of one’s better judgment, “Fair Go” is not a bad programme. It ended with some gripes and struck cords. People slowly paying by cheque in supermarkets. Wayward trolleys. Supercilious shop assistants. Inelastic underpant elastic and non-stick-ing envelopes. The stuff, that can turn life into a minor nightmare. It is basically a good-hum-oured programme which

might even help to sort out a few injustices. And, at boring moments, there is always the possibility of conjuring with the name of one of the presenters. Manorma Ram, good at her job though she might be, does sound like a rude college mascot

Tailpiece.Trish, whose

surname I do not know, has this week been presenting the sports on the 6.30 News. In appearance and speech style she bears a passing resemblance to Sybil Fawlty. When she appeared with Philip Sherry, who has more than a hint of Basil’s irascibility about him, it was almost too much.