Ski-ing the Australian Outback

Press, 1 July 1986, Page 32

Ski-ing the Australian Outback

Judith Doyle

Hot beaches, coral reefs, desert country and the Outback — ski-ing is not something you associate with Australia. Yet there is one type of skiing that can open up a new world for Kiwi downhill skiers and that is Australian cross-country ski-ing. Nordic, langlauf, or cross-country ski-ing — by whatever name, it is claimed to be the largest winter activity in the world; There are more than 50,000 cross-country skiers in Australia and the sport is , growing every season. New Zealand will be losing out on a special ski dimension if it does not find a way of establishing cross-country skiing on a large scale. Langlauf racing is one aspect that can be developed, but the growth area is in the true cross-coun-fry.

Australia claims to have an area the size of Switzerland under winter snow. The snowfields are in New South Wales and Victoria. They cut. a ragged swathe from just south of Australia’s capital, Canberra, to Victoria’s Mount Baw Baw, 100 km from Melbourne.

Not that there are many mountains that a New Zealander would call a real mountain. Most of Australia's alpine country is more like the South Island’s high country or the Tongarlro National Park in the North Island. It is- a rolling, expansive area of far horizons, superb for cross-country ski-ing.

In the last two or three years the sport has taken off in Australia. Ski resorts are crowded and expensive. Many skiers are starting to prefer the great wide spaces even if it does mean a pack on your back and no mechanical lifts.

While the alpine region is less challenging than New Zealand’s, it is an area to treat with great respect just the same. Last season — 1985 — one of Australia’s best for snow cover, was the worst for cross-country ski accidents.

One involved an experienced cross-country skier who set out on his own —

and was never sighted again. In another, two skiers — novices — went out inadequately clothed. They were caught in a blizzard and froze to death. Continental weather patterns mean that a country as vast as Australia can be subjected to extremes of temperature. Conditions can be very hostile.

Just before the opening of the 1986 ski season, a new safety campaign for cross-country skiers was launched. It involves intention forms, further ski instruction camps, and ski touring leadership courses.

For safety as well as fellowship reasons, a newcomer to the Australian alpine area or to the sport, does well to join one of the six companies now offering cross-coun-try courses and treks. Some are centred on lodges (accommodation is built on the mountains, unlike New Zealand’s). Other courses are held from snow camps with the extremely primitive cattlemen’s huts providing a safety net if necessary.

Thinking I might as well take the plunge, I joined a five-day snow camp, run for newcomers to cross-country ski-ing within the Bogong National Park in the Victorian Alps. Clothing needs to be in layers. With no lifts, it is hard physical exertion and you, need to be able to peel off and yet have jerseys to put on again when you stop. Thermal underwear which “breathes” is ideal for perspiration and this “breathability” makes japara jackets excellent, plus the fact that they are really > waterproof, not showerproof like so much downhill gear. Good waterproof over-trousers are also recommended. Having carefully pared down the contents of my pack as far as possible, it still felt heavy as we skiwalked the Bkm up to our camping spot in the Bogongs. A flat area, surrounded by snowgums, it looked harsh in the extreme. Three little dome tents went up. I was comforted by the presence of

a little wooden 100 hidden in the trees.

A circular pit, just over a metre in depth, was dug for the fire. This became the “hearth and home” of our snow camp. Thu billy for the morning cuppa was boiled at it. Sociks and mittens, drying at the fire, mixed with the aroma of mulled wine — an unforgettable bouquet. We cooked at it; heated wash-ing-up water on it; and drew on Its comforting warmth in the evenings. We woke in the morning to a world made fresh-new with snow. The silence was total. Can you hear silence? It felt like it. The gums .were bent double with the weight of snow which gradually flicked off them as the sun grew warmer. Flurries of snow continued, interspersed with sunshine, as we learned

diagonal striding — the lean-forward, gliding motion that allows you to move forward surprisingly quickly.

The four downhill skiers amongst the nine of us relearned the snowplough and the stem turn, which feel quite different with the loose heel of the cross-country ski. The adventurous tried the heinous Telemark. Done well, this is a graceful Sturn, with one ski behind the other. It looks as if you are balancing on a thin wavy line. Perpetrated by beginners, it has horrible possibilities and usually ends in a spectacular crash from which you emerge looking like a ball of white candyfloss. When we had mastered the basics of cross-country ski techniques, we went on long, day treks. We

carried a day pack only, with water bottle, extra clothes and scroggin. We skied through trees — gums, of course. On the High Bogong Plains, the snowgums become stunted and sparse until they virtually disappear and the wide, wide plains fill your view. Sometimes we would find a stream and refill our water bottles. We followed the poles of the Alpine Trail on several occasions. Sitting round the campfire one evening, we calculated that we had covered 20km, one day. With the stars piercingly clear above us, the snowgums around us and the fire crackling .;. It felt good. We had seen only a handful of people In our five days in the snow camp. That felt like an achievement, too.