In search of Australia’s great white wines

Press, 19 April 1986, Page 15

In search of Australia’s great white wines

By

Ch’ng Poh Tiong

Recently I met Denis Lillee. The chance meeting at Leeuwin Estate, a famous Australian vineyard, soon grew into a very pleasant conversation indeed.

Perhaps because of the inspired surroundings, the talk turned to wines and I was asked to recommend some more reliable New Zealand names. The cricketer was going across the Tasman to teach New Zealand players how to inflict on Australians, and others, the damage he used to do to New Zealanders and others. The former fast bowler confessed to a partiality, so my public relations exercise for New Zealand

wines centred on the whites, principally the Sauvignon Blanc, a variety in which this country so effortlessly (and embarrassingly for others), excels.

A Morton Estate black label (last available only in the North Island), was mentioned, and so was the ’B3 Corbans. Having only heard of (but not tasted) an award-winning Selaks, I passed the same information on, but with the necessary qualification. After this rather engaging innings, I was asked my opinion of Australian whites. And just as well, since I feel Australia makes more interesting white wines than reds.

My comments here come not from memory, but rather from tastenotes. They represent but a personal shortlist, and are not meant to be comprehensive.

Wherever possible, I will also be including the New Zealand and Australian prices as they apply at the place of purchase. Dollar for dollar, drop for drop, the best-value Chardonnay I tasted last year is the 'B3 Orlando’s Rowland Flat (around SNZII). The vintage was actually not available in Sydney or Perth on a recent trip. Light, tending golden, the award-winner makes a very real impression

indeed. The alcoholic content alone checks in at 13.8 per cent. Orlando’s ’B3 Chardonnay is, however, not the most balanced of wines.

Yet it possesses all the characteristics inherent in Australian Chardonnays. The oak is there, so’s the bitter nutty flavour, and that famous hint of lemon. Personally, I prefer the ’B3 Chardonnay to Orlando’s 'BO, ’Bl and ’B2 Classic Maturation Series. Costing almost twice as

much (around SNZ2I, SAustll), I find the bigger brothers of the ’B3 wine, while more balanced, too thin and evasive to my liking.

Furthermore, you also lose out on sheer volume since the somewhat pretentious Classic Maturation Series contain only 740 ml, rather than the standard 750 ml.

Perhaps it’s the similar climatic conditions of the same year, blessing one and all alike with equal

sunshine and rainfall, but I do find very real similarities between the ’B3 Chardonnay from Petaluma (Brian Croser, winemaker) and the Or-

lando example. The Petaluma is, however, more demanding in price. Although still unavailable in New Zealand, it already costs about SAustll in its country of origin. Petaluma (named after the American arm-wrest-ling capital), is, of course,

developing a reputation for its Rieslings, although they are not I suppose, as famous as Leo Buring. Rieslings bearing the last name often fetch as much as sAust3o upwards. Less expensive versions are readily available, and are usually very drinkable.

My favourite Australian Chardonnay to date, is the Wynn’s ’B2. All the Australian Chardonnay characteristics are here; the nuttiness, a dash of bitter (almost honey-like), the fruit, flavours, and the lemon quality. What is so disarming about this wine is its subtlety. It does not lash out at you (as perhaps the

’B3 Orlando, impatient to impress), but does a lingering whirl and twirl in the mouth.

The Wynn’s ’B2 cost about SNZ2I and sAustl2. The only drawback about this wine is its very limited supply. Leeuwin Estate, in Western Australia, where I met Denis Lillee, is also becoming a very important vineyard. There is also a restaurant on the premises. Naturally enough, the restaurant offers only the vineyard’s own wines. The style is decidedly French, dry to bone-dry.

Robert Mondavi, the Californian vigneron, was engaged as consultant in

the early 1970 s to help establish the winery. The estate puts out a range that includes Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

Early last year, the sprawling grounds of the Margaret River destination played host to the London Philharmonic when it visited Western Australia. In March ’B6, the lawns fronting the restaurant and the backdrop of bush and tall trees will once again answer the call of music. This time, the setting will be enhanced by the orchestra regarded by many as the world’s very best, the Berlin Philharmonic.

Making wine and music at Leeuwin Estate . . .