Touch of old Australia

Press, 12 November 1985, Page 22

Touch of old Australia

By

SUSAN KUROSAWA

With heritage hunting firmly established as a Seat Australian pastime, 5 it is in New Zealand), the little New South Wales town of Berrima is enjoying a renaissance of popularity. Nestling in a sleepy hollow cradled by the meandering Wingecarribee River, Berrima endures as a beautifully preserved example of nineteenth century Australians. The town is situated on the Hume Highway about mid-way between Sydney and Canberra. In the 1840 s, Berrima was the main settlement in the rich agricultural district of Camden and provided an amiable oasis for travellers in the wilds of countryside roamed by bushrangers such as the infamous Ben Hall.

In the 1860 s rural development forged southwards and a railway line constructed through Mittagong, Bowral and Moss Vale bypassed Berrima. The highway hamlet saw little passing trade after that, but because it was spared all the trappings of progress, Berrima stands very much as it did when it was pro-

claimed a township on May 31, 1831. This is nirvana for collectors of colonial memorabilia. The setting is perfect. The highway facade is one of neat Victorian-style cottages, larger wide-veran-dahed houses of pinkish bowral brick, and a comfortable brace of Devonshire tea parlours, arts and crafts galleries, antique shops, plant nurseries, and quaint restaurants. Forming the hub of Berrima is the Surveyor General Inn. This hotel was named after Sir Thomas Mitchell, the N.S.W. Surveyor General who founded Berrima, and it stands today as Australia’s oldest continuously licensed hotel still operating within the original walls. Today it’s a jolly place bustling with colonial atmosphere and offering good, simple fare. Bed and breakfast along bush country pub lines is also available. Other notable Berrima landmarks include the court House (opened in 1838 and scene of the state’s first trial by jury); Berrima Gaol (a grim place with a history

of savage floggings and harsh conditions) and the Bull’s Head Fountain (an intricate example of iron moulding set into the north wall of the gaol).

Most visitors are more concerned with exploring the galleries and shop. Baskets, dried flowers and herbs, hand-made woollens, wooden toys, pottery, goodies like Granny used to make dressed up in clothcapped jars, antiquarian books and prints, handblown glass, and antique furniture are all displayed in cottagey stores. The little tea shops do an

enviable trade in damper and scones. There are several gbod restaurants serving food with an emphasis on local produce; Mrs Oldbuck’s Pantry dispenses home-made jams, preserves and wildflower honey, and Lazar’s specialises in natural ice creams with such winning flavour combinations as rhubarb and raspberry. There is a palpable community feeling in this little time-warp town and even the inmates of the corrective training centre in the old gaol are involved in the spirit. of the place.

A two-storey building, which was once the gaol superintendent’s residence, is now a gallery and shop for the prisoners’ paintings, leather goods, copperware, hand-make trinkets and jewellery. The craftsmanship is of a high standard and prices are reasonable.

To reach Berrima from Sydney, drive along the F 5 freeway and then the Hume Highway; the trip will take about one and a half hours. If travelling from the south, Berrima is reached along the Hume from Canberra in about the same time.