DINNER

Press, 26 December 1984, Page 8

DINNER

Civic Regency Manchester Street, Ph. 67-779 (licensed)

CAROLE VAN GRONDELLE)

It is hard to imagine that the new Civic Regency restaurant was once the heart of Christchurch city’s administration. Extravagantly refurbished, the old Council Chambers on Manchester Street, offers a range of courses, cuisine and entertainment possibly unique in the country. The word that immediately comes to mind upon entering is “baronial.” The entrance way includes a couple of tinkling fountains, two magnificent dried floral arrangements, a large crystal chandelier and the 3.65 m-wide staircase that sweeps up to the old Mayoral Chambers. We reach the reception, and are led to the bar for a pre-dinner drink in a room that feels like a stately English gentleman’s club, with its plush carpet, tall ceiling, panelled timber walls and comfortable lounge chairs.

Promptly at 8.30 p.m., we are led to our table, and seated by the maitre d’. The restaurant hall is cavernous. It is mid-week and most of the tables are occupied, but the place by no means feels packed. We appreciate the sense of space. There are no waiting staff pushing past us, we are free of cigarette smoke being issued from the clos-

est table, and although we have a table for two in the main section— not in one of the private dining booths available without extra charge — we feel our table is unobtrusive and private. Before we have a chance to open our menus, a waitress delivers some welcome hot bread rolls. When we open the menu, we feel a little overwhelmed. There are, in fact, three menus being offered — Chinese, French and English. The maitre d’ explains that we may choose any course from any cuisine: the system is ultimately flexible. The choice is enormous. Without counting, there might easily be 30 main courses to tempt the palate. It has been said that a good test of a democracy is its treatment of political minorities. The same might be said for a restaurant, that is, how well does it cater for minority diners. Between my partner and I, we represented a teetotal, and a vegeterian. Top marks for the wine waiter who kept an immobile face when asked for one glass of moselle — and one of milk.

We searched for a vegetarian entree and main amongst the dozens of listings, but in vain. Rather a poor show for such an extensive menu, we thought.

Nevertheless, our waitress assured me the chief could adapt the dishes I wished for.

After a rather long wait our appetisers arrived. My friend had a fruit juice, while I had a cucumber and yoghurt cocktail (from the English menu) which consisted of freshly sliced cucumber, mixed with natural yoghurt, finely chopped onion and a hint of garlic, garnished with mint. It was light, refreshing, and cost $3.90.

Our soups arrived soon after. We both had soups of the day, mine was a pleasant potato and celery potage, finely textured and piping hot. My friend had brown onion soup which he ate but felt was a little too strong by the last mouthfuls. Both cost $3.50.

My friend enjoyed an hors d’oeuvre of French chicken liver pate, finely textured and enhanced by Cointreau. Served with four small pieces of toast it cost $6.20.

Our entrees soon followed, mine a pasta spiral,' filled with spinach and cheese (minus bacon), and smothered in a rich tomato sauce, which I pronounced delicious. ($4.90)

My friend had spring rolls ($4) (from the Chinese menu), which he thoroughly enjoyed. We both chose from the Chinese menu for our mains. The chef had accommodated my vegetarian whims with a bean curd and vegetable dish, in rich soy sauce, without the seafood ($l2). It arrived at the table, steaming hot, the curd deli-

cate and tasty, the vegetables crisp and sweet. My friend had his favourite dish, sweet and sour pork ($8.50), which was up to all expectations, he said. Tangy and tasty, the dish was overflowing. As we searched through the dessert section of the menu a while later, we were reminded anew that the choices we had made were not representative of the extensive and imaginative choices available. One would need a table of 60 to do that, or 30 separate visits. For the seafood and meat lover, the Civic Regency offers a comprehensive range, from scallops, oysters, mussels, snapper and crayfish, to smoked and roast chicken, lamb, venison, and different cuts of steak. Prices range from around $lO up to $l6 for a main meal. Dishes for two or more, particularly in the Chinese section, are also available for up to $3O. Wanting some light desserts to finish off our large meal we decided on an orange sorbet, ($3.60) and brandy snaps filled with cream and apricots ($4.20). Coffee and dinner mints completed our very pleasant meal.

Our five-course meal, plus two glasses of wine, came to a total bill of $66.80.