Corned beef cuts make tasty meal

Press, 29 August 1984, Page 12

Corned beef cuts make tasty meal

Alison Holst’s

roou Facts

Corned beef is one of my favourite meats. I like it best served steaming and hot, surrounded by boiled vegetables and served with mustard or parsley sauce. Although I sometimes cook very small roasts, I think that corned beef tastes best if it has been cut and cooked in a fairly large piece, of at least one kg, but preferably two kg. Corned beef shrinks quite a lot during cooking. I find that it seldom goes as far as I think it should, because everyone wants a lot!

Two cuts of beef are usually “corned” or salted — brisket and silver-

Brisket usually costs less per kilogram. It has a higher proportion of fat and is rolled, tied, and often skewered to make sure it stays neatly rolled during cooking.

Silverside is lean and is usually not rolled, although it is sometimes tied to keep its shape compact. It is often cut in a wedge shaped piece, and usually has an outer layer of fat along one side. It costs more per kilogram, and the cooked meat has a different texture from brisket.

The corned beef of my childhood was “washday” fare. It was considerably saltier than today’s corned beef, and cost considerably less.

Today, a $l2-14 piece of silverside will yield about eight servings. When you buy corned beef you will want to make sure that you cook it well.

It is important to simmer rather than boil the meat. If you can keep the heat ajusted so the surface of the water is barely moving, the meat will be more tender.

Because today’s cures are mild, and the meat is not particularly salty, you do not need to change the water during cooking, nor do you need to use large quantities of water. I like to choose a saucepan into which the meat will just fit. I put in water to nearly cover the meat, and turn it several times during cooking. Flavourings are optional. You may choose to cook corned beef without any additional flavourings, or you may have your own favourite additions.

To a Ikg to 2kg piece of meat I add one onion, two cloves garlic, two bayleaves, a stalk of celery, a large sprig of parsley (or several parsley stalks) and a small sprig of thyme. These additions add some (but not a lot of) extra flavour to the meat, but they add definite flavour to the cooking stock which I use for sauce to go with the meat.

I find that a Ikg to 2kg piece of silverside cooks in three hours, at a very gentle simmer. I allow about an hour longer if cooking a piece of rolled brisket. Although it is traditional to boil potatoes, carrots and cabbage in the pot with the cornea beef, this is not as simple as it sounds. It takes a lot of experience to make sure all the vegetables are perfectly

cooked, without raising the heat and boiling the beef rather than simmering it. It is much easier to cook these vegetables in different pots, adding some of the corned beef cooking liquid instead of water. This way you get the traditional flavour without the worries of over or under cooking. . I like the carrots cooked in large pieces, until just t tender, and covered with some of the parsley or mustard sauce. The cabbage tastes good if it is cooked in a wide, covered pan with a knob of butter and a small amount of corned beef stock. It should be served while it still has its bright light green colour. Boiled whole potatoes may be traditional with corned beef, but I think that mashed potatoes are even nicer. Other vegetables which go well with corned beef include brussels sprouts, mashed (undercooked) swede, and choko. Celery is good too.

Both the sauces traditionally served with corned beef should contain some of the cooking liquid. Do not add salt to the sauces until you are ready to serve them, since it may not be necessary. Taste the sauce after you have added part of the required liquid. If you feel that the cooking liquid is very salty, use water rather than more stock for the remaining liquid.

Mustard sauce

2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1-2 teaspoons dry mustard 1 tablespoon white or cider vinegar % cup corned beef stock

% cup stock or water

1-2 teaspoons sugar (optional) 1-2 tablespoons cream (optional)

Salt and pepper to taste Melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan. Stir in the flour and mustard. Heat until the mixture bubbles then remove from heat and stir in the vinegar and Vz cup strained corned beef stock. Stir until smooth then heat until mixture boils and thickens. Taste. If stock is not too salty, add another half cup of it. If it is salty use part stock and part water. If you like a sweetsour mustard sauce add sugar, salt and pepper until you have the flavour you like. If you like a slightly sour but creamy sauce, add cream or top milk instead of adding sugar. Heat sauce but do not boil it.

Parsley sauce

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour

Vi cup milk Vi cup corned beef stock ‘A cup finely chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste Melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan. Stir in flour and heat until bubbling. Remove from heat and stir in milk. Cook, stirring constantly until sauce boils. Stir in stock and parsley and bring mixture back to boiling point. Adjust seasoning. Variation: If preferred, use stock instead of milk. After % cup stock has been added, add 'A cup cream. Bring to boiling point, stir in parsley, and adjust seasoning. Footnote

“Alison Holst Cooks,” our columnist’s latest collection of recipes, has been reprinted to meet popular demand. Published by Beckett Publishing, the 30,000-copy first edition was sold out in six weeks.

The book’s glossy, pictorial format is based on Alison Hoist’s Sunday television series. The second series of six programmes began last Sunday. The recipes offer practical, imaginative ways to make the best use of the natural ingredients available in abundance in New Zealand.

Alison Holst is a very busy woman who combines a highly-successful career with family life. Her cooking advice respects the diverse demands on women’s time, and makes good use of modern kitchen technology, and basic time-sav-ing methods. Like most of us, she also keeps an eye on the budget. It’s amazing what can be done with the simple baked potato, and “Budget Steak Dinner” turns out to be marinated oxheart. Even the most reluctant cooks will be encouraged to “Get cracking with eggs, bring home the bacon,” and learn “What to do with the forequarter.”