The 'Princess of Gems’

Press, 21 June 1984, Page 18

The 'Princess of Gems’

I Eighteen years ago, a 36cm choker strand of | pearls sold for $75. By 1970, ' the same necklace cost $l5O. ! Today, it could fetch $B5O. ' Such dramatic changes in I price only hint at the many i changes the pearl market I has undergone. Pollution of oyster beds, spiralling inflation and changing fashion all have . had their effect. Yet, even in the face of an impending supply shortage, this lustrous gem continues to be one of today’s most soughtafter jewels.

This gem has moved up considerably in the jewellery investment ranks. It has elegance, softness and radiance not found in natural stones.

Buying a pearl, the shopper faces a multitude of considerations, including shape, lustre, colour and design of the setting. If you plan to buy a pearl you should have some knowledge of the jewel.

The pearl has a long history as a precious jewel and is recorded as being in the possession of rulers and kings up to 2500 B.C. Cleopatra is reported to have disolved a pearl in a glass of wine to demonstrate her wealth. These were natural .pearls, a species now so valuable that most are in museums or bank vaults. The pearls you see in jewel-

lers’ shops are usually cultured pearls, biological reproductions of the natural pearl. Both are formed by an oyster in the same manner:

A foreign particle enters into the host oyster, known as the mother shell. In the case of the natural pearl, it is by accident. In the case of the cultured pearl, a round core, made of shell, is intentionally inserted, a process invented by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893.

The irritated oyster then secretes nacre to protect itself from the intruder, which gradually builds up to form the pearl. Since the essential part of the pearl is the nacreous layer, both “natural” and “cultured” pearls are real.

The different sizes and shapes of the pearls produced affects the final price paid for your pearls. The shapes include the “Tear Drop,” its shape a coincidence, which is lovely as pendant or earrings. The “Baroque,” formed about a round core but disfigured by disease or poor natural conditions, makes a charming ring or broach; and the “Round,” is used mainly in necklaces.

The size and type of pearl you buy depends on how you want to use it. For a ring about Bmm is suitable, for earrings 3mm to Bmm, and

for a brooch, smm or 6mm.

The price is determined by size, colour, lustre and roundness. Generally, the larger a pearl, the greater its value.

First, you must choose the size, 'then consider the lustre. The thicker the nacreous layers, the better the lustre and enduring quality. Next, consider colour. Pearls come in pink, silver, blue, cream, yellow and, most commonly, in a jeweller’s shop, white. Generally the pink pearl is most expensive, followed by white and yellow. The real “black” pearl is cultivated in Okinawa; few are produced and they are expensive. With regard to flaws, the fewer the better, of course, but remember this is a naturally-produced finish — minor flaws are permissible.

' The price of pearl jewellery reflects the value of the gem, the setting, craftsmanship, and type of metal

used — gold or silver. Often, the cost of craftsmanship far exceeds the cost of the pearl itself.

Pearls will last virtually for ever if cared for correctly. They are prone to discoloration from cosmetics, therefore always apply make-up and allow to dry before putting your pearls

Scent is particularly harmful to pearls, and should always be applied before wearing pearls and not sprayed on to them. Therefore, clean your pearls with, a soft dry cloth after use, and wrap in a soft cloth and store carefully. Do not throw in with your other jewellery, as this will cause the metal parts of your rings to mark the pearls. Pearls worn frequently as a necklace should be restrung at least once a year. To sum up, the pearl can be simple, or can be elegant. It is indeed the “Princess of Gems.”