Start spring planting

Press, 3 September 1982, Page 7

Start spring planting

GARDENING

by

M.Lusty

Lack of rain is alreadycreating major problems for many people on the land. It is likely to have even more far reaching effects if it continues in its present pattern. But there has rarely been such an opportunity for gardeners to be so up-to-date with everything which could or should be done at this time of year. Let's not get too carried away and do too many unseasonal things, such as planting tomatoes outside even if they are against a north-facing wall and fully sheltered from the wind. This is a good month for much planting of permanent and temporary crops and plants, for potting on and potting up. Vegetables Sowings include asparagus, beetroot, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, celeriac, cape gooseberry, endive, ieeks, lettuce, kohlrabi, onions, parsley, peas, radish, rhubarb, salsify, scorzonera, silver beet, spinach and turnips, sweet corn (warm areas). Plant under glass, cucumbers. melons, marrow, pumpkins, squash, celery, peppers, tomatoes; and out-

doors, artichoke, cabbage, cauliflowers, chives, lettuce. onions, silver beet, potatoes. Use only good seed and well-formed plants. Check on variety for suitability for the season and area. Prepare a good seed bed and pay extra attention to thorough incorporation of fertiliser. Friability of the soil and level surface, together with even sowing and regulated spacings, will pay dividends in quicker and more consistent germination. This will aid better cultural attention and crop development. Asparagus: Gradually earth up new plantings until the level of the surrounding soil has been reached and do not harvest any spears from these plants this year. Established crops can be cut over

regularly cutting just below ground level and before the buds open up. Rhubarb: The formation of seed leads is a regular and natural occurrence and no cause for alarm: they should be removed as soon as they appear. A side dressing of fertiliser at the rate of up to IOOg 'per plant is recommended after both the first and second pullings have been made. Stalks should be removed cleanly from the plant without leaving part behind. This is readily achieved by firmly grasping the stalk and pulling it from the plant with an out and downward action. Parsnips; Always a difficult crop to achieve success with because it has a weak and slow germinating seed. One piece of advice: use only fresh seed and keep the soil moist. A patent recipe of a successful grower is to open up a 75mm deep drill, fill it with well rotted leaf mould, firm well, sow the seed and cover with fine leaf mould or soil. Onions: Main crops must be planted latest by this month. Do not plant in freshly manured ground. Avoid too much use of nitrogen, which induces excessive growth and impairs keeping

qualities. They are sensitive to over-limed’ soils, and a potassium deficiency can accentuate bolting.

Broad beans: Watch for signs of black bean aphid build up and spray immediately they are noticed, use acephate, or maldison. Prevent the development of rust and chocolate spot in the crop by applying zineb. Do not pinch out tops until at least eight trusses of flowers have formed. The terminal growths can be cooked and eaten like any other greens.

Fruit Apples, pears and quinces: Apply bud movement spray of a copper-based preparation with or without intermediate oil and lindane, depending on whether mites and woolly aphids are a problem. Stone fruits are very prone to various fungus diseases, such as brown rot, which can attack the crop from the preblossoming stage onwards. Triforine can be highly recommended for good control. Bud moth control in raspberries and allied fruit may also warrant attention. Acephate is very good for the purpose.

Ornamental Lawns: Preparation should be in hand for the sowing of new lawns and oversowing of renovated ones if necessary. Thiram added to uncoated seed with a little kerosene will reduce the loss of seedling to damping off. It will also provide some repellent property against birds. This is also a good month for weed control in established lawns. Applications should be done with

thoroughness and care to avoid damaging the fine turf. Chrysanthemums: Cuttings can be taken now from all varieties, using sturdy basal shoots cut off about 75mm long. Trim off lower two leaves and cut immediately below a joint (node); insert in sharp sandy loam. Keep them just moist, no more no less. Hardy annuals: Sow the following; candy tuft, larkspur, godetia, clarkia. scabious. marigolds, celosia et al.

Winter-early spring flowering plants: Prune as soon as flowers have faded; forsythias, flowering currant’s and brooms, Jasminum nadiflorum. Pot plants can be potted on and potted up now. Use fresh soil, preferably good potting compost. Remove old crocks from the root ball and tease out roots very carefully before repotting; firm, water well, allow to drain, and do not leave standing in the surplus water.