Spring-summer style preview

Press, 7 August 1982, Page 10

Spring-summer style preview

In vogue

Paula Ryan

Women’s wear, for spring and summer, 1982 seems set to be a season of variety, with opportunities for selfexpression in fashion. The good news is wearability and plenty of bright, soft, effortless ideas. Shapes are all geared towards a more flattering, flattening line. The newest emphasis is on hips, with drop-waists and low-sling sashes and belts. Light pleats flow from hiplevel, and several skirt and trouser styles have basqued waists. Then there’s the “corselette” and shining patent “waspie” designed to cinch in waists, or the side draped leather wrap to create hip appeal. The look is a sophisticated turn in sashing, draping, and wrapping, adding impact without bulk. On one aspect, designers have all agreed to disagree — hemlines. Here options start high with charming brevity in flip skirts, flip shorts — some-

times one over the other. The middle line is on the knee, or just over. Some designers have opted for the easy length — mid-calf or below. At any length, skirts and shorts (with the exception of pin-thin brief cuts) have a certain supple fullness. 'Shorts will be everywhere, in French knicker styles and

flared, flying shapes. ' Culottes will be long, and pants cropped. Then there’s the “slide” — an easy-wear, extended sweater dress, hip-belted and with big sleeves designed fob rolling above the elbow.' There are two important jackets: the big, loose, blazer, and the small, “unfussed,” shapely spencer jacket. Suedes in fine, supple quality are big news for summer, worked in clever colour combinations like turquoise and sand stripes. Styles follow the casual: big shirt with laced neck over flip skirts, or the simple T-shirt with suede culottes, shorts, or long skirts. Suede "slides” with cheeky front and side lacing will also feature in the summer's interpretations, although because of the cost of suede it is not expected to be seen in volume. Some designers have preferred ruffles in all permutations for summer, while

others have opted for the sleeker graphic proportions in shape.

It has been said that the series “Brideshead Revisited" on television has influenced several designers now working with natural linens, and their emphasis on hiplines.

Wherever the influences are derived from, this summer’s fashions,, whether classic or inventive, are loaded with designer imagination. Stripes dominate the patterns, from brbad to narrow. Clever use of spots and flowers will also be sighted, along with pretty plaids.

Fabrics include cottons, silks, crepe de chines, shantung, natural linens, and poplins.

Colours are rainbow ranged in a variety of sherbet pastels, jewel brights, and earthenware and sand shades through to the familiar black and whites. Feet will be seen in flat pumps and sandals, low-

heeled daintiness, with the occasional slender heel for creating lift. Jewellery when sighted will lean towards geometric unobtrusive looks or layers of long pearls. Silver will tend to replace gold when worn with many of the blue shades.

Make-up ranges from the soft touch to the slightly brighter.

Next week we shall take an across-the-board look at fashions for men this summer.