Lean fare from the bush

Press, 9 January 1982, Page 11

Lean fare from the bush

A Field Guide to the Native Edible Plants of New Zealand. By Andrew Crowe. Collins, 1981. 186 pp. Index. 26 colour plates plus many line drawings. $19.95.

(Reviewed by

Colin Webb)

Although it may be possible to survive on native edible plants in some areas of New Zealand, during some seasons, Andrew Crowe notes that, having done so himself, it is not an experience one would wish for. He recommends taking a generous supply of food into the bush and using native plants as an interesting supplement, in an emergency, or at home. Such sensible advice characterises this new offering on what we should, or should not, eat from among the wild plants which surround us.

This is a comprehensive, yet conveniently-sized book with chapters on trees and shrubs with edible berries, trees and shrubs with other edible parts, edible herbs, mushrooms, seaweeds, and even lichens. Each separate entry deals with a single species or a group of related, sometimes including naturalised, species, and includes the scientific, Maori, and other common names, a description of the plant, the part eaten, when and where to find it, and notes on its use. These last notes often make interesting reading although the small print throughout may tax the eyes of some: recipes are given for some plants, others have detailed descriptions of traditional Maori usage, and there is a wealth of historical information including the usually adverse, reactions of early European pioneers when they first encountered some of the native plant foods.

Line drawings accompany each entry and when several related species are grouped together usually only one is illustrated — contrary to the claim on the back cover that all species are illustrated. These line drawings are not outstanding examples of botanical art, nevertheless, most are clearly drawn and will aid in identification. On the other hand many of the 104 colour photographs are excellent. The distribution maps which accompany each entry are too general to be useful. For example, the maps lead the reader to believe that coastal species such as “Salicornia australis” are also found inland. The textual distributions are more helpful. Macquarie Island, the southernmost island in the New Zealand botanical region, is oddly positioned off the West Coast, South Island, on two maps.

Some plants are included for completeness, although they are not recommended. The writer warns against destruction of our native flora when he considers species, such as rhizomatous orchids, which are completely destroyed once the edible part is taken. Likewise, ngaio is included as it was eaten by the Maoris although it is not now considered palatable as it contains a liver toxin. In describing plants such as tutu for which the flesh of the fruit is edible, but the seeds and all other parts are poisonous, great care is taken to point out those plant parts which should be avoided. This edible plant guide approaches the problem of poisonous plants responsibly and even includes a short chapter on New Zealand’s most toxic and common poisonous plants. This approach is best summarised by the author’s own advice on mushrooms — When in doubt, don’t.