Hem variations in fashion

Press, 5 August 1981, Page 15

Hem variations in fashion

Whatever the current fashion trend in skirt lengths there is no standard length that is right for everyone and every garment. To achieve the most pleasing effect, the proportions of both the wearer and the dress need to be considered.

Even so, the most frequent alterations are generally those prompted by fashion trends. To be sure of the correct level when turning a hem. the garment should be otherwise complete and fitted with the underclothing and shoes to be worn with it.

Having decided on the length, remember, when pinning up the hem, that it should look right regardless of measurement.

An even amount of garment above and below a waistline does not look pleasing, whereas depths in the proportion of two parts above and three parts below, for example, are visually satisfying. Small corrections may have to be made to allow for optical illusions, most likely to occur with plaids, stripes and pleats.

Whether altering an existing garment or finishing a new one, the fabric and style should, ideally, determine the depth of the hem. Wider hems of about Bcm are suitable for light-weight fabrics and for straight skirts. Narrower ones are preferable for flared skirts or stretchy fabrics, and either narrow, rolled hems or very deep ones for sheers. A well-made hem is the least noticeable hem —

achieved by easing out any fullness, trimming out bulk, pressing carefully and keeping the stitching reasonably loose.

The simplest hem is the

plain hem, with little or no fullness.

After levelling the skirt and deciding on the final length, pin up the hem evenly with pins at right angles to the edge and tack near the turn. W'hen the pins are removed, this allows a piece of absorbent paper to be placed between the hem and the garment for pressing. to avoid creating a line on the right side.

An alternative is to turn up the skirt at the desired length and tack the hem close to this turning before using a gauge to measure and cut the hem to an even depth. With either method, trim the seams below the hemline to o.6cm to reduce seam bulk. The finish for the raw edge depends on the fabric thickness and weave. A circular skirt or one on the bias needs to be hung for 24 hours before the hem is marked, and it is preferable for the hem depth of a circular skirt to be not more than 2.5 cm, to avoid excessive fullness.

When the hem turning is wider than the position to which it must be sewn, fullness needs to be eased out carefully so seams still match.

A line of larger machine stitching o.6cm from the edge can be pulled every 3cm to Bcm to make the hem edge fit, and help achieve an even shrinking out of the extra material in the case of wool fabric.

Where ’ shrinking is involved, absorbent paper between the layers prevents shrinkage of the right side as well.

A TURNED-UNDER hem edge is suitable for light to medium weight fabrics and

is best hemmed or slipstitched. With this finish, a turning of o.6cm is made at the raw edge and the material is usually stitched o.3cm from this turning before it is sewn to the garment.

When a turned edge is used for sheers, the fabric is simply turned under and hand-sewn to the garment. A STITCHED AND OVERCAST hem is suitable for closely woven, bulky materials. A line of stitching o.6cm from the raw edge helps secure the edge and provides a guide line for hand overcasting. If the hem is to be eased, it makes sense to choose a large stitch that can be drawn up.

To attach the hem invisibly, fold back the edge to the line of machine stitching and blind hem between the inside

of the garment and the inside of the hem.

Firm, evenly woven fabric of any weight may be catchstitched in place, with or without overcasting. Catchstitching, otherwise known as "herring-bone stitch.” is always done loosely to prevent ridging or buckling on the right side. It is most often used for the hems of lined jackets and coats and it is also suitable for a wool jersey hem edge after overlooking. Either Prussian or Paris BINDING, tape or even ribbon makes a neat finish for straight hems. Shrink the binding or tape before stitching it at an even o.6cm from the hem edge and hand sewing its other edge to the garment. Bias binding or stretch lace can be used similarly on circular or eased hems. The binding is stitched along the top of the hem so that the ease stitching and the raw edges of the hem and the binding are concealed. Once the hem is tacked in position, the other raw edge of the binding is turned under against the inside of the garment and slip-stitched in place.