Coconut cream tasty and versatile

Press, 21 July 1980, Page 12

Coconut cream tasty and versatile

COOKING with

Celia Timms

While living irt the Pacific Islands, I developed my enthusiasm for coco--riut ’cream’, 'flavouring. Called lold : ’in Fiji and pe’epe’e in Samoa, ’most of the local foods include it. The flavouring is made, of tcourse, from .fresh coconuts. ’ Now. that . excellent canned coconut cream, identical in taste and texture, is available to us here, f use it frequently in curries and other savoury and sweet dishes''which I have .modified from Island-style foods. Fish is particulary good when hooked in .xocoriut cream..- In this recipe I .have added egg-ydlks which enrich the custard type sauce but these can be omitted without spoiling the dish. A small quantity of curry powder (about j teaspoon) may be added, but personally I prefer it without this added flavouring. For-four servings you need: '■ 4 pieces filleted fish of any kind 1 onion -1 tablespoon butter 2 egg-yolks (optional)’ 1 cup coconut .cream (canned) ' 1 teaspoon lemon juice Salt and pepper Paprika Method: Slice or chop onion finely, and saute in hot butter until transparent; transfer to greased shallow ovenproof dish. Arrange fillets on top without' overlapping; sprinkle with lemon j ice, salt and pepper. Beat egg yolks with the coconut cream, season to taste with a little salt and pour over fish. Bake in 350 F oven for 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Sprinkle lightly with paproka. Everyone who has been in Fiji will have had the opportunity of eating the traditional fish dish Kokoda, which. is made from a fairly firmly fleshed fish. I find that sole or flounder is a good substitute for the local ariety. Serveit in indivi-

dual dishes or cocktail glasses, well chilled. For four persons you need: 4 fillets sole or flounder 1 onion Juice of 1 large lemon or more Salt and pepper 1 cup canned coconut cream Method: Carefully skin the fillets and cut the flesh into half-inch dice. Place in bowl and add enough fresh lemon juice to completely cover; Refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Chop or grate onion very finely and add to coconut cream with a seasoning of salt and pepper; chill covered for the' same length of time as the fish. About an hour before serving, pour lemon juice off the fish, add drained fish to coconut cream and onion and blend carefully. Divide between required number of cocktail glasses, garnish with lemon, parsley or a sprinkling of paprika and return to refrigerator until ready to serve. This' Coconut Curry of Chicken has a flavour different from other curries which may not be enjoyed by everyone but it is worth trying and it could be found that it is greatly liked. For four to six servings you need: 1 medium size chicken or 6 chicken pieces 1 cup finely sliced onion; 2 cloves garlic 3 tablespoons butter or oil 2 teaspoons chipped fresh mint 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 dessertspoon garam masala 1 dessertspoon curry powder About 1 cup water 1 cup coconut cream 2 cups finely grated carrot 2 tablespoons flour Salt end pepper Method: Place the jointed chicken or chicken pieces in a saucepan with chopped garlic, ginger, mint and salt to taste and

enough water to just cover the chicken; simmer over low heat until chicken is tender. Remove chicken and place broth in refrigerator until any fat is set.. Skim this off. Saute onions in hot butter or oil; add curry powder and 'garam masala and cook for two to three minutes before adding the finely grated- or shredded carrot; continue to cook over low heat, stirring continually. Gradually sprinkle over flour then the broth and coconut cream, stirring until thickened and smooth. If too thick add more water or coconut cream. Taste for seasoning and serve with freshly boiled, well drained rice. Gula Malacca is another traditional Malayan dessert of moulded, unsweetened sago served with a very sweet sauce of palm sugar, or brown sugar, and coconut cream lightly flavoured with lemon. In the original version they use lemon leaves to flavour, but I have found finely grated rind satisfactory. For four persons you need: 225 g sago 175 g brown sugar 1 cup coconut cream (can- , ned) i teaspoon finely grated lemon rind Method: Put sugar, lemon rind and 1 tablespoon water in top of double saucepan or in a bowl over boiling water and stir until sugar is dissolved 1 and just boiling; remove from heat, cool and add coconut cream blending thoroughly. Wash sago in strainer, then soak in bowl covered with cold water for 5 minutes.

Return to strainer and hold under running cold tap until water runs clear. When drained, turn into saucepan containing about 3-4 cups of rapidly boiling water. Stir to prevent sticking and boil until clear — about eight to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Pour back into the sieve and hold under running cold tap until each grain is separated and the water runs clear. Divide between 4 moulds, or one large mould and leave until set. Turn out and serve with the sauce. NOTE: If the unsweetened sago is unpalatable, additional sweetening can be added to it after cooking. For those people, who keep hens, curried eggs can make an especially acceptable and easily prepared meal, particularly if the curry sauce is already made and in reserve in the refridgerator or freezer. I strongly recommend doing this, and the following Coconut Curry Sauce will be new and different to many housewives. To make about three cups sauce or sufficient for six to eight hard-boiled eggs, you need: 2 onions 3 cloves garlic 1 dessertspoon garam masala 1 dessertspoon curry powder 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 whole cloves 1 425 g can coconut cream 1 inch piece green or fresh ginger Juice 1 large lemon 2 tablespoons cooking oil Salt to taste 1 teaspoon chopped f esh mint Method: Slice one of the onions thinly and saute in hot oil until very lightly browned, add crushed garlic and crushed grated ginger, cloves, garam masala and curry powder and cook, stirring for 5 minutes. Add the other onion, grated, lemon juice, tomato paste and coconut Cream. Cook over low heat, stirring. Add salt to taste. Do not let it boil,

just barely simmer for 2-3 minutes. Add mint nad eggs, and when eggs are thoroughly heated, serve with rice and a sweet chutney. Vattalappam is a Malayan dessert by origin, but 'is also very popular in Sri Lanka. Palm sugar or jaggery is used as the sw-eetener, but I have substituted brown sugar and maple syrup. If maple syrup is not available, brown sugar only can be used. It is a rich custard, deliciouslj’ flavoured with coconut and spices. The following quantities will serve six to eight. 4 eggs i cup firmly packed brown sugar J cup maple syrup (if not available double the quantity of brown . sugar, 1 cup)

1 425 g can coconut cream i cup evaporated milk or cream j teaspoon cardamom } teaspoon mace Pinch of ground cloves 1 tablespoon Rose water (available from chemist and optional) Method: Put brown sugar and maple syrup (or brown sugar only) in a bowl and stand over simmering water, stirring, until dissolved. Beat eggs lightly, add dissolved sugar; stir well then add coconut cream, evaporated milk, spices and rosewater. Blend thoroughly and pour into lightly buttered individual moulds or large oven-proofed dish. Stand in dish of hot water and bake 'in slow oven (250-300 F until set, about labours. Serve thoroughly chilled.