Test by taste

Press, 29 March 1979, Page 16

Test by taste

If confession is good for the soul, then that part of my make-up is due for a lift this week. I don’t think it will soar to unknown heights but will probably hover self righteously in the knowledge that the record is being put right. Just before McWilliams Lovedale Riesling appeared on the Christchurch market I made the comment that, if the company could not make the grade with the two already available, Spaetlese and Late Pick, it was unlikely to with Lovedale. I suppose I was put out at the thought of yet another addition to an already overcrowded range. Having now put it to the taste test, I consider that it will not only make the grade but will also enjoy a good share of mo-selle-style sales. Slightly drier than its contemporaries, it does not have the almost overpowering bouquet and strong fruit flavour to which we have become accustomed in back-blended rieslings, but is clean and fresh and very easy drinking, especially for those palates ready for a change from the usual style. But don’t take my word for it. It is being sampled around the wine shops at present, so make a point of asking for a taste and make your own decision. (Are you there, Soul? Feeling better now? Great! Back to sleep then!) It is, incidentally, a good week for tasting. You may also whet your palate with two good Corbans wines, Sylvaner Riesling and Private Bin Chasselas. Since, the former is our main white wine grape, we are all well aware of its characteristics and are able to form our own conclusions but Chasselas, I feel, should be more widely known. Chasselas is the principal white wine grape of French Switzerland where it is known as Fendant. It is believed that it was introduced by Swiss mercenaries returning from France. Because their land was too poor to support all the inhabitants many hired themselves out to the French armies and re-

turned home with money, honours and vines.

It provides an example of the way in which the same variety will respond to differences in soil and climate to produce a wide variety of wine styles. In the Lavaux region the wine is very dry and robust; in Valais it is soft, fruity and rather heady; in Neuchatel, where the soil is chalky, the wines are described as light and sprightly, but here they are spritzed (given a sparkle) and the saying is that a good Neuchatel makes stars in the glass;

in the area south of Lake Geneva the wine is light, mostly dry and slightly spritzed, with a fine bouquet. In the Loire Valley of France it is known as Puilly sur Loire and, although considered to be lesser ,in quality to Puilly Fume, made from Sauvignon Blanc, production nevertheless exceeds the latter by six to one and is marked by what is called “gunflint” dryness and a flavour akin to truffles. In Alsace it is one of the seven white wine grapes permitted by the laws of Appelation Controllee. In New Zealand it is called Golden Chasselas and responds to local conditions to produce a light, delicate wine, with a clean medium bouquet and a gentle fruitiness which is apparent mainly on the back palate. A nice wine for light dishes and eminently suitable far serving as a social sipper. The Corban treatment is good — is it ever bad? — but care must be taken not to ruin the delicacy of this wine through the regrettable Kiwi habit of overchilling. Half an hour in a household refrigerator is all it needs.

On the other side of th« coin is Montana Dry White '77 which, accord, ing to release information, is mainly chasselas. | could not detect any grapa flavour at ail because of a massive overdose of sub phur dioxide. Although most winemakers use the chemical to guard against oxidation, the smell and flavour of sulphur usually dissipates quite quickly. Not so with this one. Half an hour after opening it was cer, tainly not as strong but 1 could still taste it.

It is a pity that Mon-* tana have spoiled a good track record. It’s a long time since I have tasted one of their wines with such an obvious fault

The good news is that due credit must be given Montana for its 1977 Pino, tage. It is now being re< leased along with the dry White and, although it needs more bottle age, it is clean and well balanced with a pleasant tannin finish and showing signs of the ability to develop in the bottle.