Choosing clothes to flatter

Press, 26 January 1979, Page 7

Choosing clothes to flatter

In many countries women think that fashion changes should be imbued with all the solemn authority of a latter-day Commandment when fashion designers issue their decrees each season. They race out in their droves (all shapes and sizes) buying up styles that are often intended for the hipless, bottomless, boobless of ladies. Fortunately in New Zealand our designers are generally quick to answer the call for more variety by adapting these international trends. But I know many men and women hate shopping for clothes.

They may window shop and even try on garments but are afraid to make the final purchase through being unsure of their choice. Many people won’t even venture inside the doors of a beautiful boutique if they are feeling a little untidy at the time.

However, probably the biggest problem of all for shoppers is not knowing what suits them. This then results in their saying that they have walked the town but there is just nothing in the shops — a rather unfair statement, especially in a city that, if anything, is over-serviced with clothing shops. Let’s look at a few

simple guidelines for shoppers now that thoughts will shortly be directed towards winter buying. General rules:

1. If anything is exceptionally " becoming to you, find out why (this is also a good indirect way of learning more about your figure) and look for that particular cut, fabric or shade when you shop. 2. Check your figure. If you look overweight you are overweight, and only you can change that.

3. Try to be reasonably clear-eyed about fashion and adapt trends rather than follow the leaders. 4. Be self-critical about your figure faults and remember that usually the best dressers are the best cheats.

Special Tricks: If you want your neck to look longer avoid a lot of collar. Vs and openshirt collars are the best (more skin equals longer neck). The same principle applies to neck pieces — chokers shorten, long ropes lengthen the neck line. Also hair above the collar will keep your head from looking scrunched down.

Broad shoulders look worse in shoulder-padded garments. Raglan sleeves with high armholes are safer and silk blouses with

bits of gathering look better than moulded sweaters. However, the new look for this winter is to wear very wide padded shoulders so if you are a fashion follower your broad shoulders could be an asset.

Ladies, if your bosom is too much of a good thing, the first thing you need is a good supportive bra that really fits well. You can lead' the eye away from the bosom with subtle diversions like gathered shoulders and pretty collars. Also avoid too much overlayering which will result in extra bulk. Leave empire lines and other more fitting shapes to the flatter-chested; they are not for vou. Should your waistline he too long or too short, keep separates all of a colour and you • won’t notice the problem. Versatility can be obtained from colour in accessories.

When you’ve got a slightly potty tummy you are going to look best in things that skim past it. Tops in light weight fabrics are wonderful. They can be belted but must not be fitting below the waist.

With this problem, side slash pockets are a good thing, especially if you love the gesture of keeping your hands in your

pockets. This is called balancing bulges with bulges. A cleverly cut skirt with little gathers at the sides of the front can do the same thing. Sweaters are better out than in. Above all, avoid contrast in separates and centre pleats in skirts. When attempting to take the accent off your hips and bottom be wary of pleats and gathers. Be sure that trousers fit superbly all the way around. The best way to wear even the best fitting trousers is under mid-thigh, loosely fitting tunics or super-shirts. Larger hips and bottoms are more flattered when covered in darker tones. I’ve heard many women say they wish they could lock taller. The most obvious of tricks will lengthen legs in appearance. Tone shoe to stocking to shirt, or wear trousers that are almost plumb straight and cuffless. The idea is not break the line, so resist flounces, borders and braids at the bottom of skirts and trousers.

Other things to avoid (no matter how adorable) are patterned stockings, shoes with T-bars. ankle .straps and extended soles. If you are on the short side, four or five-inch

heels give you a lift but make you look as though you’re walking on stilts, shorten the legs and take away the swingy grace to your stride. Remember also, the shorter the jacket the longer the illusion of legs. A narrow flare in a shirt gives a longer line than a shirt that stands out at the sides. It’s all a matter of proportion But a final word of warning — be careful when examining and camouflaging what you consider are your bad points that you don’t overlook your assets. These- should be enhanced.

FASHION AND BEAUTY

Paula Ryan

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