Putting puha in its place

Press, 4 November 1978, Page 17

Putting puha in its place

Maori Food add Cookery. By David Fuller. A. H. and A. W. Reed. 92 pp. $7.95. (Reviewed by Ashley Spice) This book contains much interesting information about pre-European Maori foods and their preparation, and about

the changes in Maori cooking as European foodstuffs and utensils became available. It contains, too. a number of recipes — some simple, some more complicated — which, if followed, could lead to New Zealanders making greater use of distinctive local foodstuffs and, as the book claims, to a more lively national menu.

But the book has, perhaps, come too far from its sources in attempting to elevate Maori cooking to the level of a “cuisine.” The dust-jacket gives the book away. Author and publisher seem to be trying to get a “Great Gourmet Series” look. Artistically arranged are a kete with a puha leaf, paua and kumaras spilling on to a hessiancovered table, set off by a carved wall motif and arrangement of flax leaves. Shcmld be a sackful of mussels, a half-G of beer, 16 chipped plates of assorted design and size on newspaper, with a picture of Aunty Arai at Mere’s wedding on the wall, eh?

(Ashley Spice is a Maori with a deep love for good cooking and good food—Maori and Pakeha.)