Fragrances

Press, 15 July 1978, Page 10

Fragrances

FASHION AND BEAUTY

By I

Paula Ryan

Perfumery has not only become a science, it is almost a way of life.

Many products we buy for kitchen or bathroom are marketed around its smell. One can purchase anything from scented candles to rose-smelling car polish. It’s getting to the stage that there could well be soon a demand for some p e r f u m e-free products. Nevertheless, perfumes are here to stay; although, personally, I feel that these flower fragrances are best limited to toiletries.

We generally associate perfumes with a French origin. This is probably because the first-known

named perfume, “Eau de la Reine de Hongerie,” was launched at the French Court in 1367, although the name stems from old Italian (per fuma: through smoke”) which suggests that perfumes were once used as incense. According to the story of the French Court in the fourteenth century, Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, was given a rosemary formula by an old hermit. Elizabeth adored it, finding the concoction not only pleasing to wear but tasty to drink; and through liberal use of it became so desirable a creature that, even at the age of 72, she had a proposal of marriage from the King of Poland. This perfume proved popular for centuries, needing only citrus additives, and a new name in 1690. to continue in popularity as “Eau de Cologne.” It is impossible to give a scientific analysis of the sense of smell. What smells pleasing to the individual is tied to the psychology of association which varies from person to person. Most perfumes are complex products, each ingredient deliberately setting off another. There can be hundreds of ingredients cleverly blended to produce one distinct smell. Perfumes react quite differently on individual skins, so one perfume can

smell different at different times. There are three main stages in the production of perfume: the selection of raw materials, their blending, and the formulation. Raw materials fall into two catagories — natural and synthetic. The traditionally natural components are both botanical and animal in origin. Synthetic ingredients are a more recent development — over the last. 30 years — thus gradually eliminating the controversial use of animal products. As a rule, the higher the price of perfume the more expensive its raw materials and the more effective the aroma. How do you select a perfume? There is really only one way — with patience and experience. Fortunately testers are provided for the purchaser. The best method is to spray a little of one perfume on your left inner wrist (over the pulse area) and another on your right. Sniff both perfumes immediately, but make your final decision an hour or two later. Only then will they have reached their drying-out stage, when the surface smell has given way to the main body of the perfume. It is impossible to test more than two perfumes at a time. The chemistry of the skin can change a perfume. Generally a woman with fair skin will acquire better results with a delicate fragrance than a

woman with dark olive skin because of her sebum (oily substances). Perfumes last longer on oily skins but tend to become sweeter. If you wear perfumed hair spray, or smoke, the effectiveness of your body perfume is overpowered by the other odours. The ultimate effect of perfume is in the way you use it. It should not be looked upon as the last thing you put on before you leave home. It takes up to two hours for the fragrance to stabilise into its full aroma, so apply it after your shower or bath — before you dress or make up. The best and most effective areas to apply perfume are the pulse-points: ankles, behind the knees, bosom, throat, back of neck, wrists and crook of the elbow. Contrary to popular belief, behind the

ears is not a good place as the oil secretions there are often different from the rest of the body. Do not apply perfume to clothing, it will stain and eventually take on a stale odour. Also do not expect a perfume’s fragrance to last for as long as 24 hours. A good perfume generally lasts from 4 to 6 hours. Once uncapped, a perfume should be used continually as slow evaporation sets in. Even a perfume capped is likely to start going stale after three years as even glass breathes.