An onion for all seasons

Press, 15 September 1976, Page 13

An onion for all seasons

Although the onion is regarded as almost indispensable in most homes, quite large quantities are usually purchased instead of being grown in the garden. It may not he generally realised that it is possible to ensure supplies of this popular vegetable over a long season by growing early, mid-season and late onions. Varieties such as the Pukekohe long-keeper can be stored for many months and used as required. Onions do not favour an over-rich soil, and ground which has been manured for a previous crop will be ideal. Over-rich soils tend to produce a heavy top growth to the detriment of the bulbs and detract from the lifetime of the long-keeping varieties. Most garden loams are suitable but will need fertilising. A mixture of three parts bonedust to two parts superphosphate, distributed at the rate of a handful to the square metre will be fine. Wood ashes dug in at the same time are also beneficirl but if not available then half a part of

potash may be added to the above mixture, making 3,2, y

These fertilisers must be applied well within range of the plants, which have a very limited root system. The best method is to distribute it in a band about 20cm wide and about scm under the surface. Given these conditions the onion is a hardy plant and most tenacious. When it is. considered that i hey grow well under difficult conditio.,s in many . commercial arejS, it can be seen that in a home garden situation with sheltr ■ from the wind and more care available, there should be no problems in growing a nice crop. Opinions are divided on whether it is better to sow in spring or autumn but experience in most onion-growing districts has proved that the spring-sown seedlings produce better keeping onions. However, in practically half the commercial areas transplants are planted from seeds sown : i March and April. These autumn-raised plants give good results, often producing larger bulbs than later sowings, but they do not keep so well.

Both spring and autumn sowings may be ’ made in mild districts although, with the exception of small plantings, spring sowing should be practised in most southern areas. So, for early crops, sow in early April and for keeping onions, sow thinly in drills in the position in which the plants are to grow from July until late September early October. Although numerous onions are grown from transplanted seedlings this method does not always give such good results as those seeds sown in rows where the plants are to remain and mature, particularly in regard to the long keeping kind. The best method is to mark out shallow furrows about 2.5 cm deep with the distance between furrows around 25-30 cm. Remember that onion seed will not germinate if conditions are not favourable. After sowing, the seeds should be covered with good, loamy soil, pressing this down firmly so as to compact all the large air spaces around the seed.

Water thoroughly and keep moist with daily sprinklings if necessary, until'the seed germinates. If you decide to use transplants instead of seed, the young seedlings are ready to use when they are about 10cm high. When using seed, the plants should be thinned out to- about IQcm between each plant. If transplanting the ones you’ve thinned, make sure that only the roots are covered with soil leaving all the green foliage above ground. Transplanted seedlings will probably strike more readily if they are nipped back by scm. When the plants are well established, say after two or three weeks, they may be given a weak solution of sulphate of ammonia — one heaped tablespoon to 4.5 litres (1 gall.) of water. This should be sufficient for about 3 metres of running row. Weak liquid manure may also be used but care is necessary to avoid over-stimulation of this crop.