The trend's towards elegance this year

Press, Volume CXV, Issue 33818, 15 April 1975, Page 13

The trend's towards elegance this year

The scruffy look is out; smoothness and elegance are the fashion notes for

men this winter and next spring, according to one who should know—Mr 1 lenry Mathers, manager of Lane Walker Rudkin's tailoring division.

He predicts a trend towards more restraint in both colour and style. Men will be looking for clothes that will not ' be affected by fashion changes—clothes that will stay in style during this period of financial restraint. !

Suit fabrics will be generally plain gabardines and twills, with cream and coffee tones to the tore. Grey is making a comeback, and the goodlooking soft checks are expected to remain popular throughout! 1975,

Styling will be complementary to the favoured colours. Mr Mathers says there will be more use of patch pockets on suit jackets, and pleated pockets too. “Plain fabrics lend themselves to this treatment,” he said. Suits would remain basically classical in design — tasteful, elegant and wearable. “Men will be looking for suits that won’t date,” he said. “So there’ll be - no half-belts or cuffs. Trouser cuffs are going out — except for the high fashion garments sold in boutiques.

“Flares are still in, and the trouser bottom width is standardised at 22 inches." Mr Mathers noted that the trade was showing a certain sensitivity to rhe economic situation. When things were a bit tight, the “adornments” came off so that .people could buy suits: that would last them through the period and not! suddenly go out of fashion. Suite jackets would be of the “button-two” variety, j but with wider lapels than up to now. Lapels would! have a slightly bowed look, and the width would vary a bit from manufacturer to, manufacturer.

Fabrics used for suitings would have a soft look; cloth with a slight pile to it would be popular. Natural fibres would be very much to the fore. "That’s what produces the look that the manufacturers are now trying to achieve,” said Mr Mather. “They can: get it in the good woollen! worsteds.”

Top-stitching will be a feature of this year’s suits, especially where it can effectively complement the cloth. But garish contrasts between stitching and cloth will be avoided. Mr Mathers said there should be room in most men’s wardrobes for a knitted suit as well. They were particularly valuable to men who did a lot of

travelling, because they’ were uncrushable and in the case of Canterbury] suits, washable too. Also useful was the casual suit — such as a safari’ jacket and trousers — for'

wearing to cocktail parties < or barbecues where jeans ] and a sweatshirt would be ] unacceptable. < So long as it was ] elegantly done, a suit these < days could also be con- ! trasting jacket and trou- « sers. Elegance was the key- < word. "The Gatsby look ] has had it,” said Mr Math- < ers. “Baggy trousers are j out. < There’s nothing sloppy in 1 men’s dress todav.” !