Water plants slowly and steadily with fine spray

Press, Volume CXIV, Issue 33454, 8 February 1974, Page 11

Water plants slowly and steadily with fine spray

Prevailing climatic conditions not only influence the choice of plants for a particular area but also their subsequent development. This applies whether the situation is an open area, such as field or park, or a more confined position such as a garden. Extremes of weather can have further effect, and no better example can be given to illustrate the point than some of the species of Eucalyptus growing in various parts of Australia, where the same tree will react in a totally different way, depending on the severity of the conditions in which'it is growing. This brings into focus present conditions. Right now the soil is rather dry a and moisture must be given to the plants in order that they may grow, crop and flower, as the case may be If this attention is not given grasses can be expected tc brown off, salad crops will be slow to develop, flowers may wither and fruit mav remain small or drop off prematurely. Watering, or irrigation, of crops or plants is generally regarded as a simple or uncomplicated procedure which it is if done correctly. Unfortunately there is a misconception as to what this really entails. It is neither allowing a high pressure flood to find its own course, nor does it consist of a walk around the garden whilst gently swishing a hose from side to side. Moisture must penetrate the lower levels of the soil not just wet the leaves and dampen the surface of the ground as this will not reach the roots. On the other hand a rapid flow in a short time can be both wasteful end damaging. Rapid application of water is more likely to run off particularly on hard dryground and especially so if it is sloping it can also lead to scouring, loosening of the plant and, above all. plant nutrients can be washed away. The very best method of applying water is - at a steady slow rate, as a fine spray rather than heavy flow. It should be maintained in the one spot until thorough penetration has been achieved — to a depth of 6in to 12in. Once this has been achieved it is not difficult to maintain a suitable moisture level in the soil. Consistency is important.

■ Spasmodic bursts can do a i lot of harm and under very • dry conditions it would ap- ■ pear that if such treatment . is to be given the plants are • sometimes better off without i it. Care must also be taken : not to create paddy field t s conditions and where drainlage is poor “wet feet” can J be a major problem. ) VEGETABLE SECTION There is stiil time to get i i winter brassica crops planted ■ out. Continuity of supply > is easily maintained with the ! good selection of different i kinds, varieties and strains ■ which will also enable conf siderable diversity of form) > whether it be red cabbage,! curly kale, borecole, sprouts! s or cauliflower. l It is also not too early to t sow the seeds of spring i cabbages, and proven varit eties such as Enfield Market, 1 Flowers of Spring and 757 ■ automatically come to mind, i For a quick growing gap > filler between main crops I Winter Pride is as good a > choice as any. Irrespective of the kind of ?! variety of brassica grown, | | they are all susceptible to I Fattack from aphides and ca-’ ((terpillars. Unless they are! -jgiven protection from'these! >|pests they are not really! I worth growing. Lindane protfvides quite a reasonable II period of control against • both sucking and chewing • insects; alternatively a mixi ture containing D.D.T. and t menazon can be used. The i quickest way of applying the i chemical is to dip all the plants into the solution bes fore planting. I Leeks can be established 1 with less effort than it takes i with almost any other plant, l although success with this crop is dependent on giving I them a good start. Leeks are : gross feeders and respond • well to manuring. Nitrogen, "I phosphorus and potassium Hare all necessary together 'lwith the addition of ample : (organic matter. The latter II should be thoroughly incorporated and to a good Hdepth. When planting the iltops can be trimmed to reJduce wilting. Firm planting His not essential and the tipiants can be dibbled into a JI two inch hole. Subsequently Jthey can be earthed up but ■ should be kept weed free I and the soil kept moist. > As harvesting progresses i areas of the vegetable plot > become vacant. A green crop - such as lupins, peas, vet- ! ches, oats, barley or rye will . provide, a.very useful source . of organic matter later on.;

This will help maintain the soil in a good state but does not provide a substitute for fertilisers, although legumes such as lupins and peas do subsequently provide a slowly available source of nitrogen. Very dry material such as .straw should not be dug into I the soil unless thoroughly i wetted, and then it is advisable to add sulphate of ammonia or a similar nitrogenous fertiliser to assist in the break-down process. Sowings for the month include beetroot, cabbage, carrots, endive, lettuce, siljver beet, spinach, radish and (turnip. Fruit section Judicious picking of fruit will enable the crop to be harvested over a longer period apart from enabling it to be harvested at the optimum time. Stripping the tree in one operation results in rather a mixed bag of fruit at different levels of ripeness and maturity. ! It is not easy to define jthe correct stage at which to j pick a particular fruit. It is | often dependent on the use |to which it will be put. I Peaches and apricots indic--1 ate approaching maturity when the colour changes from green to yellow or blush. Plums tend to develop a deep bloom which is more pronounced on some, such as Blue Diamond, than on others and colouration becomes consistent over the entire skin. Apples usually lighten or deepen in colour and russetting becomes evident on those which have this tendency. Pears, however, require careful observation as their flavour can deteriorate if left just a little bit too long on the tree. They are considered superior both in flavour and for bottling if picked

before ripe and will ripen if held for a week or two afterwards. ORNAMENTAL SECTION Lawn sowing preparations can be overdone for little extra benefit. There is, however, no substitute for good technique — the main objective should be to obtain a level and firm sowing area with ample moisture belowground level so that the lawn seed can germinate readily with the minimum of delay.' Bulb planting preparations should be well in hand now with a definite planting scheme in mind so that they are not scattered everywhere without thought or purpose. It is not too early to be planting bulbous irises, freesias, grape hyacinth and crocuses this month. Preparations can also be made to get Iceland poppies in for winter flowering. Sweet peas, too, can be sown for winter display. Successional sowings of calendulas, either in boxes or direct, will give an additional splash of colour during the late autumn, winter and spring. ' Budding can continue. Success can only be derived from good contact between stock and scion, and the ties should therefore be secure. To facilitate lifting the bark from the stock, these plants should be kept well watered in advance of carrying out the budding. Now is a good time to secure and make cuttings of many plants. They can be taken w-ith or without a heel attached to the semi-ripe wood. Lower leaves should be stripped off and a slice of bark can be removed from part of the lower end of the cutting which can be dippled in rooting hormone to promote more rapid rooting.