Climbing Roses spectacular

Press, Volume CXIII, Issue 33252, 15 June 1973, Page 11

Climbing Roses spectacular

Climbing roses do not excite the fancy of all gar- , deners and one of the 1 points made by their detractors is that they flower only once. They are also considered difficult to manage. Although it cannot be refuted that climbing roses do not enjoy as long a flowering season as, for instance, their bush counterparts, they do carry a few blooms in autumn and the fact remains that they are spectacular when in full bloom. In fact, it would be hard to select many more colourful and floriferous climbing plants, suitable for most conditions than a good climbing rose. it is also true that some climbing roses are vigorous, some of them making as much as 10ft or more growth in a season, but there are also less rampant growers. Initially, therefore, it pays to be selective in choice, by growing a cultivar which will suit the position. After it has been planted, whether to be used on trellis, pergola, fence or perhaps pillar, preparation should be in hand to train it properly as it grows so that it goes where desired at the right time. If this is done in good time management is no problem. TWO TYPES There are two» distinct types of these roses which develop long canes. There are the ramblers, which are mostly hybrids of Rosa wichuriana or R. multiflora. They are distinguishable by the development of long, slender. whippy growth, much of which emanates from the base of the plant each year. Most of them are summer flowering, the hlooms being small, borne in clusters, although there are so-called perpetuals being introduced which continue to bear into autumn. Examples of the former include Dorothy Perkins, American Pillar and the larger-flowered Pauls Scarlet. New Dawn is representative of the latter group. The climbing roses with which we are concerned tend to produce a thick and rather stiff cane, less fre-

qently from the base (unless encouraged by hard cuttingi. than as lateral growth from existing mam stems. Flowers are larger than those produced by rambling roses, a |fact which is clarified when their origin is known. Climbing roses are predominantly of two types. They may have originated as such from seed, such as Nancy Hayward. Alterna tively, and this applies to a great many, they are socalled sports having been derived from hybrid teas and floribundas. often purely by chance. GRAFTING These are then perpetuated by grafting and budding. A so-called sport comes by chance like some apples, e.g Splendour, and no amount of inducement can obtain such a cane from a bush rose. Planting is fairly straight forward. One thing to note, however, is that when climbing roses are to be trained against a wall they should not be planted close against it, but kept at least 12in away. This is done because the region of soil in this vicinity is usualy very dry and difficult to moisten properly. and if roses, irrespective of the type, are to give of their best they must receive plenty of water throughout spring and summer. Climbing roses must not be hard pruned (they can be tipped) after planting, as it can cause them to revert to their previous form. In subsequent years pruning should consist of removal of unproductive wood and, of course, any dead or diseased canes. Old canes which are left should have their lateral growth spurred back to two buds. It is a great and comomn error to cut out, severely shorten and tip back new growths. As growth develops it should he tied down, avoiding vertical positions as much as possible and aiming to get the stems more on a horizontal plane. Plenty of room should be left between each one and where possible a balanced layout, of growth should be developed about [the rootstock.