Hardy Amies collection

Press, Volume CXII, Issue 32849, 24 February 1972, Page 7

Hardy Amies collection

(N.Z.P. A. ’Reuter—Copyright) LONDON. Hardy Amies, the Queen’s dressmaker, has introduced his 1972 spring and summer collection with the announcement that most of his 80 models are ready-to-wear and only a few made-to-measure. Hardy Amies, the Queen’s dressmaker, introduced his 1972 spring and summer collection with the announcement that most of his 80 models are ready-to-wear and only a few made-to-measure. Even the rich and the royal clients who buy from this fashion house are tending to prefer the time saved in buying ready-made clothes to the fittings and fuss involved in a made to measure garment. The line that emerged in this collection was definitely reminiscent of the 1950 s with full swirling skirts and sleeves, wide black patent belts and box pleats galore. Day dresses with the hemline just brushing the knee had fitted belted or trimmed waists. Fine wool crepes and lightweight tweeds in bright

green, yellow and navy, often with a contrasting braid around the cuffs, hemline and neck, continue the Hardy Amies’ style of classical elegance.

The most startling aspect appearing in his evening wear is the bat-wing sleeve on a see-through top with bare back. A sister of the Dolman sleeve, the bat-wing is exactly as it sounds, and is usually accompanied by a high neckline falling into a soft bow, over the sometimes exposed back.

One characteristic batwing ankle-length dress was a softly fitting purple black and green printed chiffon falling into tiny knife pleats from the waist and trimmed with black ribbon. There has been some excitement on the Paris fashion front with three leading Paris couture houses suddenly changing their schedules. Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin and Nina Ricci, who were not going to show couture collections to the press and to buyers this month but planned only small private showings to clients in the late spring, have now decided to show during the couture opening. Their decision may have

been influenced by a recently announced Government subsidy for couture use of French fabric. Saint Laurent wants to avoid critical newspaper reporting and says he is only inviting private clients, trade buyers and the specialist fashion magazines to his show. But the American trade press, which was scathing about his “tarty ’forties” collection two seasons ago, says it is determined to get in.