Fashion—pure and simple

Press, Volume CXII, Issue 32848, 23 February 1972, Page 6

Fashion —pure and simple

(By

LEONE STEWART)

Mrs Nixon has gone to Peking, and the Mao suit has come to Christchurch. It made its appearance at the Tonee Travel autumn-winter fashion parade, and had an interested and approving reception.

In a subdued, clay shade, the long jacket and trouser-suit was restrained in style.

There was no conscious decoration; just the familiar buttoned and front-closing; jacket with breast pocket and standup collar—once a utility garment capitalised on by a fashion elite that is renewing its friendship with uncomplicated, wearable clothes. Whatever the Peoples’ Republic of China may think of such trifling with their national garb, the message from the parade was fashion, pure and simple. With the exception of a few pairs of shorts—usually peeping out from beneath splitskirt dresses —there were no gimmicks. The few “younglook” clothes illustrated graphically the firm division Paris (and lately, London, too) has established between those who dress for fun and those who seek the added dimension of elegance. Skirt lengths were flexible —just above the knee, just below the knee, and for evening just above the ankle. The line in the Paris-inspired gar-

ments was generally fluid, and close to the body. The Italian silhouette was more sharply sculptured, and showed a return to geometric colour use. Two trends showed up in coats. The military look marches on with tied or buckle belts (belts were very much in evidence) and plenty of seaming, pocket, and button detail. It looked its classic best in a camel hair, single-breasted trench-coat buttoned in silver and worn with a matching skirt. A number of the models had their own skirts a stylish and practical combination. • The fitted coat—long, lean, and lovely—appeared often. Curved seaming provided shape, and all the extras—collars, pockets, belts—were added in small proportions. SKIRTS Skirts were flared (as they were in most of the garments) and some coats had very deep —and no doubt draughty back vents. Along with the squared shoulders came very extended collars and reverse—memories of the era when everyone was in uniform and living life to the full. One of the best touches in the parade was the coats with detachable shoulder capes that provided some swashbuckling drama. And full marks went to one of the few genuine innovations—fringed hem-coats from Dior. Not the American Indiantype fringing, but more you woke - up - in - the - middle - of - the - night - with - brilliant - creative • idea type fringing. Two layers added to the hem and patch pockets of a skinny, black, collarless coat were both surprising and entertaining. The fur-trimmed coat is still very much with us, and so is suede—as soft as cloth and beautifully coloured. WITH JACKETS Trouser-suits, now part of most women’s wardrobes, were shown with jackets varying from full-length coats to the safari shirt. The newest look here, and among the many tailored suits, was the blazer. It has that 1940 s look—doublebreasted, long and shaped,

and with very deep, wide lapels. A scarlet number, when worn with a just-over-the-knee pleated skirt, added up to the suit-look for winter that London is promoting. Double and single pleats swirled about in both suit skirts and dresses. The cropped jacket seemed to give way to the longer, almost severely tailored lines, with the notable exception of the Chanel suit that simply refuses to die (for which any woman past 30 should be thankful). FOR EVENING

Wool showed its versatility in some superbly soft prints and fine georgettes, fashioned into the frocks that are favourites with Paris —bias cut or pleated skirts, high covered necklines, narrow belts, slim sleeves. For evening a not-too-evening dress took the honours—a graceful, black and white wool tapestry skirt, split and bound in black, attached to a longsleeved, black knit top. The little black dress was back (for daytime too), but only the most poised would get away with an entrancemaking, see-through number in embroidered chiffon worn with nothing but a body stocking. Judging from the appreciative sighs, a superb, black silk velvet, Christian Dior gown with full, elbow length sleeves, high collar and satin sash was the audience’s favourite.