LEATHER CLOTHES “IMPRACTICABLE”

Press, Volume CXII, Issue 32846, 21 February 1972, Page 7

LEATHER CLOTHES “IMPRACTICABLE”

(By I

NORMAN HARTNELL)

LONDON. It seats, it marks, it shines, it crushes and is expensive to have cleaned. Yet in the space of a few years, suede and leather have become just about the hottest fashion commodity around.

I have always thought the place for leather is on a cow or an armchair, but I have had to bow to public demand and produce garments in the stuff. What is more, they have sold well. So who am I to complain? It is just that leather and suede are not my idea of fashion fabrics—largely because they are so impractical.

The price is high, it is uncomfortable to wear (just try suede on a hot day) and the difficulties of tailoring or dressmaking in it have to be seen to be believed. Until technical achievements, beyond anything that is known today, come up with something like a coating that will retain suede’s bloom and nap, and an additive that will help to keep it in shape, I’m afraid you will never find me joining the suede and leather fan club.

Nonetheless, I must say I am full of admiration for today’s suede and leather styles and their appearance, at least on the first few wearings.

Apart from the traditional beiges and browns which continue to be the most popular colours, skin has been dyed into all the fashion colours you can

think of. It has also been printed and “tie-and-dyed.” A lot has been happening to leather, too. It has been oiled, its surface has been shredded, and so on. TRADE DIVIDED

As far as styling is concerned, the trade has divided into two distinct markets. On the one hand there is the traditional lined coat and jacket. On the other, there are the boutique lines with their instant fashion — mostly in unlined waistcoats, dresses, skirts, and jerkins. The most important thing about suede and leather is that it should look and feel natural.

The biggest problem facing the manufacturer today is the belief among some of the public that the skin must feel like fabric and be devoid of all so-called faults.

It is impossible to find any skin which has no marking —indeed the markings enhance the beauty of the skin. And some tanners, I note, are producing leather for the boutiques with artificial markings to exaggerate the natural look. The industry is now producing skins in many weights and finishes so that there are very few areas of clothing that cannot be made of leather. REVERSE EFFECT

The increase in popularity of the artificial “leather look” fabrics, which many pundits thought would drastically affect the future of the industry, has had the reverse effect. The two distinct commodities have tended to stimu-

late each other and both have tended to be very popular. Here are some tips when buying suede or leather garments. Suede needs cleaning by a specialist cleaner. Whatever you do, never let suede become too dirty before sending it to a cleaner.

Frequent brushing with a foam sponge, particularly after being out in the rain, will help to retain the nap of a suede coat.

Leather, on the other hand, improves with age — the more you wear it, the softer it becomes. Keep the surface clean by applying a good saddle soap or a household soap with a damp rag. But if you want leather and suede to keep its shape, wear it sparingly. Oxford bags, wider than ever, are sweeping the women’s fashion scene. They have turn-ups and are worn with mannish - looking jackets, shirts and gay ties.

For the last few seasons we have been raiding grannie’s wardrobe for the latest look. Now it is time to turn your eyes, and hands, to granddad’s stored-away clothing. If you do not fancy Oxford bags, perhaps the sailor look is for you. Bell-bottomed trousers, jackets, sweaters and dresses with sailor collars, and scarves and blouses, are liberally bedecked with anchors and other nautical motifs. To balance the wide look of the trousers and skirts, sleeves are more important than ever, so look for kimono and loman sleeves on dresses and knitwear.