Daffodils from June to November

Press, Issue 32535, 19 February 1971, Page 5

Daffodils from June to November

Most daffodils start to bloom in the spring although there are a few species which are autumn flowering. Generally they are not difficult to grow and are not too fastidious as to where they are planted though, of course, like so many other plants, they repay any extra attention which is given to them. Contrary to what may be thought, daffodils vary considerably in size, shape, scent, adaptability and also in the range of colour of the various species and hybrids available. Continued breeding and improvement of varieties together with the ease with which they can be hybridised ensures not only that they will continue to create interest.

Although they will grow in most types of soil they are intolerant of bad drainage which will often induce attacks by fusarium disease, a fungus which attacks the bulbs, particularly after they have been lifted. The best ground is a cool loam with plenty of well rotted organic matter.

Fresh manures should never be used; and although the bulbs are tolerant both to acid and alkaline conditions, extremes should be avoided.

After the usual thorough preparation of the ground apply a fertiliser dressing. Blood and bone plus sulphate of potash in the ratio of 2:1 at the rate of 4oz per square yard should be raked into the soil. This mixture and rate can be applied also as a side dressing to bulbs which are left in the ground for several seasons.

The planting season for daffodils, or narcissi if you prefer, is from March until May. However, experience will show that early planting seems to induce superior blooms. Late planting frequently causes long foliage which comes above the flower and partially hides it. Depth of planting is pri-

marily dependent on soil type and bulb size.

Deeper planting will be necessary in lighter soils and the converse is the case in really heavy ground. Deeper planting has a tendency to force the bulbs into more rapid growth though there is a limit to this rule. As a general guide narcissus bulbs should be planted at a depth about two and a half times their size.

Spacing of the bulbs is again a variable factor depending predominantly on the scheme or planting effect which is desired. If-effect is the aim then quite obviously close planting is very desirable. When -he emphasis is to be more on the individual bloom a wider spacing must be given. This is also a requirement where naturalisation is planned so that when the bulbs split up they will not crowd each other out for at least several years. A spacing of 2in is suitable for bulbs which are to be left in for only one year. Allow 4in between bulbs if they are to be left undisturbed for two years and so on.

Where massed displays are intended, as for instance in a lawn, establishment can be effected by simply scattering the bulbs by hand and planting them where they land. A long narrow trowel is ideally suited for this purpose.

Only strong and hardy varieties of daffodil bulbs are suitable for “naturalisation” as such a scheme is known. White Nile and King Alfred are two good examples of this sort Greater effect can also be obtained by keeping varieties apart rather than mixing them. Good soils will facilitate deeper plantings in such situations as a border, thereby allowing the sowing or planting later of the smaller

types of annual on top of them. However, this method will mean that the bulbs have to be lifted every three to four years. After flowering, foliage should not be tied in kots or, worse still, cut off; the leaves are a source of food for the bulb and help to build up reserves. If they are removed it can seriously affect flowering in the next flowering season. Spent blooms should, however, not be allowed to develop seed pods but. are best removed as soon as they fade. If it is desired to lift, the bulbs do so as soon as the leaves have turned yellow. Dry the bulbs in a shady; well-ventilated place to prevent sun scorch and also to reduce the chances of the narcissus fly getting at them. This ever-prevalent pest, the larvae of which are destructive on many other bulbs apart from daffodils, can be controlled by immersing the bulbs in hot water (110 deg. Fahrenheit) for one hour immediately after lifting. Alternatively, they can be fumigated by using Paradi crystals. Selection of daffodils is largely a personal issue and perusal of specialist raisers’ catalogues will assist in making a choice. With a little patience a successions) flowering scheme can be worked out as illustrated by the examples below. June August: Narcissus tazetta, Soleil d’or. Paper white. Late August—September: Species such as N. bulbicodium and N. cyclamineus. September: Early trumpet, Magnifence. October: Trumpets, doubles, small and large cups. Late October: Jonquils. November: Poeticus.