PRACTICAL GARDENING

Press, Volume CX, Issue 32393, 4 September 1970, Page 10

PRACTICAL GARDENING

Specially written for "The Press" by

M. LUSTY

Gardeners’ Queries

Enclosed is a sample of weed which is present in my lawn. In the past I have sprayed with 2,4-D and although it tends to “knock it” slightly it soon recovers. A.M. (Ashburton). This is a fairly common weed of lawns suckling clover. Clovers require the use of 2,4,5-T for successful elimination. As this is a hormone (as also is 2,4-D) great care should be taken in its application, particularly in proximity to plants and for this reason the low volatile preparation is preferred. Could you help me with information on the preparation of a lawn tennis court. -It is to be formed on an area which has been bulldozed flat from a considerable slope. There is some rye grass ip tufts over the whole area. Is there a weedkiller to kill this grass and yet not affect the soil for the sowing of the seed? Would spring or autumn sowing be best? Would liming be necessary? What rates and varieties of seed would be necessary?—E.G. (Cheviot). This whole query is rather too lengthy to discuss here. Experience has shown that it is impossible to dictate precisely what preparations are necessary to get soil ready

for a particular purpose. Every area must be treated on its merits. In your case you should make sure that the ground has an even, depth of top soil oyer the entire area and that it has not been too compacted below. Paraquat may be your best cheriiical to deal with the rye grass if you wish to sow soon after Sowing. In your area it may be preferable to establish the grass in early autumn (to ensure satisfactory establishment), unless moisture is not a problem. The usual mixture of two parts chewings fescue and one part brown top at the rate of up to' one ounce per square yard is suitable for tennis courts. The base lines could be sown with a hard-wearing grass such as rye. Pelletised or " coated seed is worth using. Last year we purchased a rhododendron and for some months now the leaves have become stained and have lost colour. There to some new growth bn the main branches but generally appearance suggests a short life.—R.G. (St Martins). Spray with ferbam for control of leaf spots and use iron chelates or sulphate of iron to correct chlorosis caused by alkaline soil. Browning of the margins of some of the leaves has been caused by winter conditions. Examine root region of soil for dryness. I should like to start a herb garden but do not know where to obtain plants and seed.—B.S. (Christchurch). A range of seeds is available from most good garden centres and similar establishments. There is at least one specialist grower in Christchurch from whom plants can be purchased.. The secretary, of the Herb Society is Mrs A. Hill. 395 Memorial Avenue, who could be of considerable assistance to you and anyone else interested in herbs. I have a grape vine outaide from which I have had some wonderful crops. This year, though, the bunches were only medium sized and the grapes only ripened at the sharp end or at the base. Most of those in the middle of the bunches only grew half sized and remained green. What remedy? A.S. (Lyttelton).

This could be a physiological problem due to various influencing factors. Uneven ripening of berries in a bunch of grapes may also be caused by boron deficiency. An application of foz per vine spread evenly around the feeding area should counteract such a deficiency.