MID-KNEE HEM FOR HARTNELL

Press, Volume CIX, Issue 32217, 9 February 1970, Page 2

MID-KNEE HEM FOR HARTNELL

(N.Z. Press Assn.—Copyright) LONDON, Feb. 6. Norman Hartnell, the Queen’s dressmaker, had the last word in the 1970 spring fashion season here today. The word is “knee-length.”

Serenely ignoring the big issue of midi, maxi or mini hem-lines, Hartnell showed what might be called a royal length. The name he gave one of his suits—“ Suitable” —summed up the whole collection. Because he has been so busy making the Queen’s wardrobe for her tour of Australia and New Zealand in March, as well as clothes for Princess Anne, Hartnell delayed his opening for nearly a month.

Anyone who thought Hartnell would meekly follow Paris in lowering hemlines was in for a surprise. He showed only two genuine midi lengths and one real mini, which had bodice cutouts and was worn under an anklelength white wool maxi-coat hooded with white fox. If they had not known better, the audience might have thought they were seeing his wardrobe for the Queen, with mid-kneecap hems, pastel colours, gently-flared redingote coats and princessline dresses. “MAME” About the only thing that would not have been eminently suitable for Royalty was the mini and a yellow silk trouser suit called “Marne.” Its top failed to meet in front and was hitched together with three diamond buckled bows.

Princess Anne’s tour clothes. The designer, who showed his first trouser suit only last year, included two this time —“Marne” and a much less daring number in white crepe. There were a few discreet Prince of Wales checks for another Royal touch, and lots of the pale blue, cream, pastel yellows, pinks and greens the Queen usually wears. Hartnell also likes navy and white and he put in a splash of vivd fuchsia on one of his chiffon dresses with full skirt and sleeves.

With slightly-flared, kneegrazing skirts and semi-fitted, mid-hip jackets, models wore white patent bootees or shoes in a marbled effect patent leather. Most hats had wide brims, but there were a few smaller ones ringed with roses.

Hartnell cagily refused to disclose the hem-line of