Work For October

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31801, 4 October 1968, Page 6

Work For October

Fluctuating weather conditions can greatly Influence and upset the growth of many vegetables which do best under more settled circumstances. One of the important Influences at this time of the year is warmth—and this is especially necessary where too-early sowings or plantings of such crops as tomatoes, beans, cucurbits, and sweet corn have been made. Mini glasshouses, cloches, and “hot caps” can still be used to advantage for this purpose. The miniature glasshouse is a fairly recent introduction, and is really a portable glass-mounted frame. It can be shifted easily about the garden, and ventilated by sliding the glass, or even removing it altogether if so desired. Because of its portability, it has considerable advantages over the “Dutch light,” a perma-nent-frame structure once much favoured for many forms of propagation. “Hot Caps”

The cloche is, of course, a more simple arrangement which is available in various forms. It has been derived from the old concept of using a bell jar—from which it has got its name. “Hot caps” may not be familiar to everyone, and reference is tb a bowler hat-like form of waxed paper. These are ideal, for forwarding individual plants during the early part of the seeson. The rim of the cap is laid flat on the ground, and covered with soil to prevent blowing away and to retain warmth. It is important to use them only on well prepared ground—the soil must be very friable, and should be well watered in advance of use. As the plants develop the cap is slit on top to allow air in, and permit gradual hardening off of the plant before its complete removal.

Cloches and mini glass*, bouses need not be discarded at the onset of better weather, but can be used virtually the whole year round by making use of intercropping and strip-cropping programmes worked out to suit oneself. For instance, such crops as radish, carrots, and spring onions can be grown alongside others such as cabbage, lettuce, and tomatoes. Many crops can be begun during early autumn, and then covered later. Broad Beane

Although we seem to confine the sowing of broad beans to autumn and spring they can be grown virtually at any time of the year. Those which have been autumn sown should have the terminal growth pinched out once they have set between six to twelve trusses of beans, depending on the variety grown. Strong winds can severely damage plants once they have grown tall, and the positioning of stakes at intervals and linked with twine will give good support Blight which is really an infestation of black aphids, if allowed to go unchecked can rapidly cause plant setback, and most often will be found to eolonise the upper parts of the plant first Malathion will give protection but it mutt be realised that during the time rapid growth is being made such relief is only temporary, and repeated applications have to be made in order to achieve results. Menazon, which is a systemic, will give a longer safeguard but should not be applied while the plants are in flower.

As the beans develop, regular picking will encour-

age oncoming ones. When picked young, they can be used without shelling them and are very succulent Indeed. If planting kumeras, be careful not to overdo the nitrogen-fertllised application —for excessive amounts will promote too much top growth at the expense of tuber development. It should also be noted that where it is intended to apply acidic fertilisers, such as superphosphate or potash, these should be added to the soil well in advance of planting as kumeras are rather sensitive to them. If planting is being done in dry soil adequate watering should follow immediately.

Harvesting Rhubarb Rhubarb will soon be ready for pulling, and will provide a welcome substitute when fruit is not so readily available. Do not take more than one or two stalks from each plant, as otherwise it will create too great a demand on them. In harvesting, employ the correct technique by grasping the stalk near the base, and pulling it off the plant with a sharp outward twisting motion—so that it comes away cleanly. After the first and second harvests respectively, apply about one ounce of sulphate of ammonia per plant by sprinkling it around it, not at it

It is possible to provide a continuity of peat by planting several different varieties at the same time. Sowings made now should provide amply for the Christmas dinner. One of the earliest varieties is William Massey; Victory Freezer takes about two weeks longer; and Stratagem is one of the slowestmaturing but heavy cropping peas, though very susceptible to virus.

Vegetables For Sowing Generally, weeding, hoeing, thinning, planting, and sowing—not to mention pest and ■disease control—will now mean considerable activity in the vegetable garden for quite a time. The following vegetables can be sown this month: Aubergine, dwarf and runner beans, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celertae, celery, Chinese cabbage, Cape gooseberry, cucumber, endive, globe artichoke, kohlrabi, Jerusalem artichoke, leeks, lettuce, marrow, peas, parsnips, peppers, melons, pumpkin, sallsfy, silver beet, scozonera, New Zealand spinach, spring onions, squash, sweet corn, tomatoes, turnips. Plant also cabbage, cauliflower. cucurbits, endive, kumeras, potatoes, silver beet, tomatoes and yams. Fruit Section Tight-cluster, pink or white-bud, and petal-fall sprays will be needed during October, and may have to be repeated if wet conditions prevail. Bitter-pit control can also be begun from petal fall. Some varieties are more susceptible than others —and these include Cox's Orange Pippin and Lord Wolseley. Calcium nitrate has always been the recommendation for this purpose in the past; but if recent trial results are any indication to go by, it would seem that this material will be soon superseded by calcium chloride. This has already given excellent results using only half the quantity required of calcium nitrate.

There is still time to get citrus trees planted out. In fact, now is the ideal time as the danger of heavy frosts

recedes, and plants mak growth almost immediatelj they are sited- Earlier planting usually subjects them to all the adversities of weather and lack of growthfactors which could contribute to their death. Ornamental Seeds sown in boxes last month should be ready for pricking out a matter of some urgency where germination rates have been high. Seedlings which are being pricked out must be handled carefully at thia stage to avoid damage to the small and as-yet delicate roots. Once pricked out keep them watered with a fine spray so as not to cause injury or puddle the soil. Shading from heat may also be necessary until they have established themselves.

Sowing of annuals can be continued yet awhile, so as to provide prolonged flowering. Some such as schizanthus and larkspur give better results if sown directly in their permanent positions. Weedkillers

Now is the time to apply weekillers to waste areas, paths, drive-ways and lawns. Where treatment of lawns is desired, leave them uncut for about a week, then apply the chemical. A further week should lapse to allow for translocation of the weedkiller before the area can again bo mown. Irrespective of the material used, application should only be made during completely windless periods, as the slightest drift from some of them can have disastrous effects on some plants. There is still time to sow new lawns. Once sown the area should be kept earfully moistened and not allowed to dry out in order to encourage rapid germination. It is essential that watering be done thoroughly, evenly, and with a mist-like spray—not a heavy wetting. If growing chrysanthemums for the first time, plant them flrmly at 181 n spacings if they are being put in a separate border—or in elumps at a similar distance apart if for a perennial border, as more colour can be obtained in this way. The tips should be pinched out when about Sin high to encourage sturdier, branching plants. Failure to do this may result in leggy plants, which also flower inconsistently. Spring Bulbs

The flower-heads of spring bulbs should be removed as soon as they have finished blooming, but leaves should be retained. This is to prevent Seeding, which depletes the bulb of food reserves, and is a possible cause of smaller flowers in the following year. The leaves help to provide energy for the plant. House plants should be repotted now, and those which do not appear to be thriving should be fed either with liquid manure or tablets. It's already time to act conceming the applications of mulches before the onset of drier warmer weather. In time, such a procedure imparts an excellent tilth to the soil. It also helps to retain warmth and moisture, and goes a long way towards helping to suppress weed growth. Fresh materials of such nature as sawdust and straw should only be used if mixed with a nitrogenous fertiliser, such as sulphate of ammonia or dried blood, otherwise, the plants will be at least temporarily starved of the same nutrient