WHEN SEWING JERSEY

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31680, 16 May 1968, Page 11

WHEN SEWING JERSEY

Basically, jersey can be cut and sewn using the same methods as for a woven fabric comparable in weight and texture, but there are a few characteristics about knitted fabrics to remember and a few cutting and sewing suggestions to note: Lay the jersey so it is completely relaxed before pinning pattern in place. Fold marks may be difficult to remove, so avoid placing pattern pieces where the original fold will be in a predominant place. The lengthwise rib in jersey is comparable to the selvedged thread in a woven fabric. Use the rib as a guide for placing pattern pieces. Stay-stitch all bias and curved seamlines after removing the pattern. v Use an average length stitch, 12-15 to the inch. Test on double thickness of fabric. When stitching, stretch lengthwise seams slightly, to give added elasticity and prevent stitches breaking and seams pulling when the garment is worn. Stay crosswise seams with straight seam binding. A straight skirt or sheath dress should be lined. Make the lining separately, attaching it at neckline, armholes and waist. Allow garments to hang before turning up hem. Press as you go. Finish and press each seam before crossing it with another. Fabric Care. . . .with the choice of fabrics getting larger each season, it is increasingly important to know what they are made of and how they should be treated. To avoid disappointment read any data with the fabric and ask for information from the dress fabric shop assistant FITTING Some Fitting Tricks.—lf a tendency to sway-back causes a few shallow wrinkles at centre back waistline, clip the waistline seam and ease the fabric up into the waistband or into the waistline of your dress until the wrinkles disappear. If one shoulder Is lower than another, use a shallow shoulder pad in the lower shoulder. If one hip is higher than the other, by not more than one inch, open the seam on the high hip and taper it until the skirt hangs evenly at the hemline. Necklines fit better if the shoulder seam is stitched only to within five-eighths of an inch of the neckline—to the point where the neckline seam crosses the shoulder seam. If neck base is full, causing neckline to strain or wrinkle back and front, open the shoulder seams from the neckline almost to the armhole edge. Allow neckline to adjust naturally, then, starting at neckline edge, pin the seam together again.