Balenciaga Drops Belt

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31595, 5 February 1968, Page 3

Balenciaga Drops Belt

(N.Z' P.A.-Reuier—Copp right)

PARIS, Feb. 3. Balenciaga, the Spanish - born Paris couturier, has opened his spring collection show here with a large group of yachting clothes destined for his yacht-owning and wealthy middleaged clientele.

In his showing, which opened yesterday, he featured slim trousers in every length, ranging from above the knees to mid-ealf pirate pants and ankle-length slacks, teamed with loose, boxy, thigh-length jackets and long silk tunic overblouses. Trousers came in thin woollens or linens, with silk blouses and head scarves, worn under the square-shoul-dered double-breasted jackets made of linen and window pane-checked woollens. His day clothes retained his

famous ultra classic style, with a square, padded shoulder line, tiny rolled collars, and loose, straight, trouser-leg sleeves.

, Patterned coats in large checks or striped tartans were generally shown shorter than dress length, over slimlined supple linen or silk dresses. About half the models in the collection were beltless. Hemlines were above the kneecaps, accessories were plain flesh-toned nylon stockings and low-heeled beige court shoes.

The Spanish master likes shirt dresses with loose belts and deep-set elbow-length raglan sleeves. Other dresses were unbelted and unfitted, and an alternate group raised the waistline with skirts gathered at the point of the lowest rib, beneath a snugfitting sleeveless bodice often made of white, contrasting a navy blue or black skirt Sults endorsed the very long boxy jacket with a slim, straight skirt. Lengths ranged from the wrist to the finger

tips, in striped tweeds or window pane-checked woollens, with long silk overblouses. The small turnover collar of the blouse was often worn over the high collarless neckline of the jacket. A novelty suit jacket was styled like a wrap-round bathrobe with an easy belt, and was made of vertically striped pastel tweed.

Balenciaga’s three late-day themes are sex, flowers, and hemline interest Many evening dresses were made with open midriffs, showing a generous expanse of bare skin, or had deep bare-backed decolletes with contrasting high necklines at the front. There were slim sheaths slit above the knees at the sides, or long bands of fringe cut from the knees that swayed like beaded curtains. Hostess pyjamas, made of transparent black organza, were worn over flesh-coloured body stocking ringed above the knees with black lace garters.

Flower power reached the ultra-exclusive realm of the Balenciaga couture salon. Leis of cabbage roses ringed the necklines of evening dresses, or overlayed organdy petals employed to contrive entire skirts or sleeves. The yoke of a linen dress was made of glazed white cotton daisies, and a slim yellow crepe evening gown had flower-studded suspender straps at the back. Giant cabbage roses were set on the crown of the head. Other exotic hair trimmings revived bird of paradise wings or egrets. Balenciaga showed plenty of colour, with pink at the top of the spectrum. He used every shade of pink, from pale shell and blush shades to rich cyclamen and American beauty. A woollen street suit was in vivid pink and white table-cloth checks. He revived taffeta, which has been a dark horse on the fashion scene for 10 years, and showed it in a blue and white pattern print for a long hostess gown. |