April Tasks Include Harvesting And Attention To Winter Crops

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31332, 31 March 1967, Page 7

April Tasks Include Harvesting And Attention To Winter Crops

April marks the end of the main growing season in all but the most favourably situated vegetable gardens, and for the next few months there is very little seed sowing and planting. However, there are existing crops to attend to, and given sufficient attention they can be kept healthy and moving. Tomatoes should be picked regularly. Gradual defoliation helps to hasten ripening by allowing greater penetration of the sun’s rays. At this stage of their life little if any benefit will be obtained from the leaves as was the case during the growing season. Towards the end of the month, or just as soon as a frost is expected, fruit can be taken indoors to ripen. The whole plant can be uprooted and hung up in a shed. Light Is not necessary, and indeed can be detrimental to them, especially if they are kept in a dry atmosphere. A warmth of about 60 degrees Farenheit with a related humidity is best, otherwise rubbery, soft or rotten fruit are likely. Green fruit can be wrapped or used but should not be wasted as there are innumerable recipes using them. Lifting Potatoes Potatoes can be lifted now and digging should be done carefully to avoid bruising if they are to be stored. They may be held in a clamp and unearthed as needed, or stored in cold conditions to reduce sprouting to which some varieties are more prone than others. There are one or two proprietary sproutinhibiting dusts which could be applied where large crops are to be stored for any length of time. As with the stems of tomatoes, potato haulms are preferably burnt, rather than consigned to the compost heap, to destroy prevailing diseases and possible pests. Pumpkin, squash and marrow will all have to be brought in very soon as they are susceptible to frost damage. However, fielding is advised first An article dealing with their handling will appear next week. Spray Brassicas

The prevalence of aphides will necessitate a close watch on all brassica crops and where a long-term residual spray such as menazon is not applied; fortnightly applications of short-term chemicals such as malathion should continue. Once these pests get into the heart of plants such as cabbage or cauliflower, or develop strong colonies in frilly leafed borecole it is virtually impossible to restore them to a satisfactory condition.

Celery must be protected

against the rather common fungus disease, leaf spot which spreads rapidly in moist conditions in late autumn to early winter. Regular spraying with a suitable fungicide such as captan, zineb, or a copper-based material like a weak Bordeaux mixture affords the only means of control. Where other than the green varieties of celery are grown earthing up can continue if blanched crops are desired. Boards or corrugated paper on either side of the plants down the row will prevent rotting. This is not necessary where it is intended to blanch leeks as well as soil can be moulded carefully right up against the stems. Broad beans -hould be sown now without delay otherwise it is best to wait until August-September. Sowing at this time of the year is often a gamble as temperature and weather can cause considerable setbacks and checks in growth which later-sown crops often miss. Asparagus Beds

Asparagus ferns should be cut down as soon as they begin to yellow but the berrybearing ones should be gathered and burnt before the seed drops, otherwise the young seedlings which will come up in the spring time will soon become established to the detriment of the bed. The other growth can be put on the compost heap. Garden shears or secateurs "an be used to cut them off, at ground level. Remove all weeds and lightlv fork over the area, but where infestation is bad, with such perennials as twitch and dock, an application of weedazol T-L will give good results.

Rhubarb beds should be kept free from weeds and varieties intended for pulling from now on will benefit from a side dressing of half a pound of blood and bone a square yard. Sowing is restricted to broad beans, onions and radishes. Spring cabbage, spinach, lettuce, cauliflower and broccoli can be planted out Order Fruit Trees It is not too early to contemplate on one’s requirements in the way of new or additional fruiting subjects, whether tree or cane, and to place an order for them without delay, particularly where very popular or recent releases are wanted, as these are either sold quickly or available in very limited quantities. The same applies to fruit grown on particular rootstocks. Such factors as household preference, pollination requirements, amount of space available and suitability for the locality must be taken into consideration. This is an aspect that will be dealt with

in future articles on this page. Irrespective of choice, the sites can be well prepared now, thus enabling Immediate planting later. Strawberries can be planted now, but again thorough preparation is desirable. Perennial weeds should be carefully removed and ample, well-rotted organic matter incorporated into the soil. Advance laying of polythene where this is to be used will warm the soil up but it should not be laid on very dry soil. In such a case water well and allow to drain sufficiently, first

Storing Apples The remaining apples left on the trees now such as Granny Smith, Stunner and Ballarat will be predominantly good long-keeping varieties. For the purpose of storage remember that treeripened fruit will not keep as long, that smaller fruit keeps longer than larger, that crops from young trees do not hold as well after picking as those selected from older trees and that blemished fruit of any kind is best kept in a separate case for ready use. Standard apple cases are suitable for keeping fruit. Each variety should be kept in its own case. Wrapping in tissue or newspaper is the ideal way of storage as this not only keeps them free of dust which tends to adhere to the greasy surface but also confines any developing rots and reduces wilt. A cool, slightly moist atmosphere provides the best conditions for long keening. The reference to determining one’s requirements in the way of fruiting subjects now applies equally well to ornamental, to avoid disappointments later. Many catalogues are now to hand or will shortly become available and careful perusal of these will assist in making a desirable and suitable choice. New lawns should be rolled when the grass is about two inches high to consolidate the surface and press into the ground any small stones likely to damage the mower. Tillering of the grasses is also thereby encouraged which promotes a closer, more compact sward giving weeds less chance to germinate. Do not make the initial mowing too drastic but reduce the young grass to about one inch. Trim Hedges

Evergreen hedges should be trimmed up now before unfavourable weather sets in. Completion of this task at this stage gives them a chance to recover and make sufficient regrowth to avoid a setback. With deciduous subjects it is not quite the same as they become dormant over the winter months and the sap flow moves down to the roots. Often this then

becomes a more opportune time to attend to their shaping. Late flowering chrysanthemums will require attention in various ways. Earwigs may be troublesome as they eat the petals. Staking, and secure tying, must not be neglected and disbudding should be continued. Frost - vulnerable blooms can be protected by enveloping them in polythene bags. Dahlias are still providing good displays and these can be left until the frost hits them when the tops will become blackened, after which they can be lifted straight away. Tubers from plants which have displayed mottled foliage or curled leaves should not be retained. This is symptomatic of virus infection for which there is no cure. If these tubers are retained the disease is perpetuated. The lifted tubers should be shaken free of soil and stored in a frost-free dry place until spring. Then they should be divided with a sharp knife and replanted. Summer bedding will now be over and untidy top growth should be removed as soon as possible. On removal fork over the bed and apply blood and bone in preparation for the spring display. Bulb Planting

Bulb planting should be completed without delay. Where the soil is heavy the addition of sand in each planting hole is worthwhile whilst bulb fibre can be recommended generally. Such plants as antirrhinums, calendulas and marguerite daises will benefit from hard cutting back. Often they will produce blooms in winter in mild conditions.

Herbaceous perennials can be lifted, divided and replanted but discarding the old central portion. Cuttings can be made from roses—take them by cutting just above the first fully developed leaves and again just below a leaf to give a length of about 6in to 9in. Remove all 'but the top two leaves and plant deeply and firmly; water well. A shady position is best. The shading from glasshouses should be removed and glazing attended to where necessary. Less frequent watering is required now and is preferably done in the morning. Rooted cuttings of such as pelargoniums should be potted without delay. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the roots.

Potted begonias will cease flowering from now on and water should be gradually withheld as the leaves yellow, to help corm ripening. Cyclamens coming into flower will benefit from more regular attention. Liquid fertilisers will encourage better and bigger blooming.