Gardeners’ Queries

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31279, 27 January 1967, Page 8

Gardeners’ Queries

My dtrui tree has flona pale In colour as well as petting a dusty black cover all over It. I enclose some sample leaves and twigs for your inspection and comment.—J. J. (Ashburton). Your tree has been very heavily infested by scale insects and the black coating on the various parts of the plant is sooty mould, a fungus which grows on the sticky secretions deposited by the scales. White oil, applied in February and Repeated two to three weeks later, and possibly again in May, will give good control. I am experiencing considerable trouble with my carnations which appear to be dying at the roots. What should be done to stop further development of this trouble?—T. B. (Christchurch).

The carnations are suffering from root rot. Chestnut compound, watered on the diseased plants and on to the soil, is a recommended control for this trouble. It can be made by mixing and crushing together 2 parts copper sulphate and 11

¥arts ammonium carbonate, wenty-hour hours storage in a sealed container is then advisable. For use, add an ounce of the mixture to a little hot water to dissolve it and then stir into 2 gallons of water. Spray on. In an endeavour to establish Just when fruit trees and the like could be expected to yield reasonable crops I have looked through many books but without any luck. I therefore wonder if you could help In this respect.—G. R. (Blenheim). The following figures will give a rough guide and should not be regarded as more than this: Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, tree tomatoes, 2 years; Chinese gooseberries, grapes, V assion fruit, 3 years: feijous, apanese plums, peaches, nectarines, 4 years; apricots, grapefruit (N.Z.), lemons, 5 years; apples, quince, orange, 6 years; European plums, pears, 7 years.

We intend to plant a number of camellias this autumn and wish to have a problem settled. It has been generally stated and quoted that these plants require shade to grow well. As our garden Is lacking In large trees at present, therefore being rather open, do you think we should rather wait a few years before establishing camellias or what do you suggest?—F. W. (Christchurch).

Camellias are sensitive to exposed situations and are Hable to wind damage and sun scorch. However, they will tolerate hot and dry conditions provided

their roots can be kept cool and slightly moist. Heavy mulching is desirable in such locations. It also pays to provide support in the form of stakes, and possibly scrim side protection during the initial years of establishment in your case. If these provisions can be made I see no reason why you cannot go ahead with your intentions to plant this autumn. All queries outstanding from last week will be answered next week.