WORK FOR NOVEMBER

Press, Volume CIV, Issue 30900, 5 November 1965, Page 6

WORK FOR NOVEMBER

It is virtually impossible to write this monthly feature constantly reflecting on the weather, for its unpredictability seems to be increasing and I for one at present never feel fully confident that many of the plants—and seeds for that matter, especially in the vegetable line are going to survive for long. Each month one looks back and sincerely hopes that the coming one will at least give a more consistent spell of good weather. We can but hope!

VEGETABLE GARDEN During this month more rapid growth can be expected from all vegetables and also an increase in the competition from weeds.

There really is no excuse for heavy weed infestations in the average home garden because the areas are usually small enough to enable regular hoeings to be made without major exertion, with resulting benefits all round. Weeds not only deprive growing crops of food and moisture but also act as hosts to many pests and diseases quite apart from giving the place an unsightly appearance. Regular hoeing will prevent the establishment and seeding of many difficult-to-eradi-cate annual and perennial weeds which can be easily dealt with in the seedling stage.

Another problem which one has to contend with more frequently now is the establishment of insect pests such as aphid colonies and cabbage white butterfly caterpillars. Again, prompt awarness of their presence and immediate remedial action will probably be sufficient to prevent any setback to the developing plants, especially seedlings of the brassica family. An increasing use will be made of salad crops such as lettuce, radishes and spring onions and successional sowings of these could well be made at fortnightly intervals. A suitable alternative to lettuce, particularly where it has been found difficult to keep the birds away, is endive, a plant that has been in cultivation for hundreds of centuries.

Two types are commonly grown and they are the broadleaved Batavian and the green curled. The former is best cooked but can be eaten raw when blanched, which is achieved by tying the leaves together in a bundle above the roots. The curled type can grow into quite a large plant but, as with the Batavian, is superior in quality if harvested before fully mature: it is milder in flavour. As with all salad crops, superior flavoured endive is only obtainable if the crop is kept moving and never allowed to suffer from dryness.

It is already time to start thinking about planting the winter brassica crop and. apart from the various varieties of successionally maturing savoy cabbages and brussel sprouts, consideration should also be given to such as cauliflower, broccoli (both sprouting and heading types) and borecole or curly kale. Very often failure with the winter brassica crop can be attributed to the fact that the crops have been established far too late in the season. Although the cabbages can be planted out as late as early February, all the others should be in by mid-January at the latest to give them the maximum opportunity to establish themselves before the onset of the colder weather.

Now that the danger of frosts has somewhat receded, frost-tender vegetables, such as beans, cucumbers, pumpkins. tomatoes and sweet corn, can be sown or planted as the case may be.

Selection of pumpkins and squashes should be made judiciously from among the many good varieties available on the market now, so that not only is there some choice provided in flavour but in maturity and keeping qualities. too. Some of the more outstanding varieties include red warren, buttercup, which seems far easier to grow than butternut, a delicately-flav-oured squash, Golden ’ hubbard, and Whangaparaoa crown.

There seems to be an increasing interest in growing pep-

pers but, because of their need for warmth and susceptibility to frost damage, only the most ideal situations with a northerly aspect are likely to allow for satisfactory growth and cropping in this vicinity. However, it is always worth a try. Their requirements are similar to those of tomatoes but neither staking nor pruning is needed. Excess nitrogen will produce an abundance of leaf to the detriment of fruit but regular watering is necessary particularly during hot, dry periods. The chillies are used as flavouring while the sweet peppers can be incorporated in salads. The onion crop will begin to bulb up now and care must be taken when weeding or hoeing in their vicinity so as not to damage them. Crops which appear to be standing still can be given a boosting with a side dressing of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda at 2oz a square yard. The following seeds , can be sown during this month:— betroot, beans, borecole, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, capsicums, carrots, celeriac, cucumber, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, marrow, parsley, peas, pumpkin, radish, salsify, silver beet, spinach, New Zealand spinach, spring onions, squash, sweet corn, swedes and turnips. The following plants can be set out:—cabbage, capsicum, cauliflower, cucumber, lettuce, marrow, melon, pumpkin, squash, silver beet, tomatoes.

FRUIT SECTION The gardener who Is reluctant to spray his fruit trees and bushes, or fails to maintain a regular spray schedule, will find that during this month pest and disease activity will become more prevalent and the spread of aphids in a number of cases has already been quite heavy this year. Distortion of the foliage is the first noticeable feature of an attack by these sapsucking insects and the very least one could do if faced with a severe outbreak is to apply Jeye’s fluid, the remedial measure by which so many still swear by.

Grafts can be checked for successful takes which will be indicated by bud movement on the scion wood. Where ties have been used these can be loosened towards the end of the month and surrounding stock growth that may be coming away should be removed. Strawberries can be given a mulch to assist in cleaner, healthier fruit production and regular watering will assist berry fruits in general. ORNAMENTAL SECTION Summer bedding displays will have to be given priority if the plants have not been put out yet. Left too long they become drawn and yellow in the boxes and often do not come away too well when finally planted out. The recent article on the subject dealt fully with planning and planting and some ideas of what to include in the scheme were given. As a reminder, the following are but a very few of the plants from which selection can be made: marigolds, phlox, alyssum, ageratum, petunias, begonias, asters, zinnias.

There is often a sense of urgency on the part of some gardeners to remove foliage of bulbs just as soon as they have finished flowering. However. as the leaves are assisting the plant in its energy food producing processes, wait until they have turned brown before attempting to tidy them up. Gladioli are subject to wind damage and are easily broken off at ground level during rough weather. It is, therefore, fully' practical to stake them, especially in exposed areas, before they get much bigger, towards the end of the month. Tying must be done carefully to avoid cutting into the plant. If tied loosely below the flower spike no bruising should result. As they are susceptible to thrip damage spraying with D.D.T. or lindane is advisable.

Thrip damage is also likely on rhododendrons, the damaged. leaves of which assume a silvery appearance. D.D.T. or lindane can again be used. Dead flowers and seed pods, which should not really be allowed to develop

because their formation uses up plant food reserves which could be most beneficially utilised in other ways, should be removed from both rhododendrons and azaleas. Subsequently, any light pruning of these subjects that may be required should be attended to. Roses will require fungicidal and insecticidal coverage as it is virtually impossible to keep them healthy otherwise. Where emphasis is placed on fewer but larger blooms, disbudding may be carried out, but in sb doing care must be taken to avoid indiscriminate work. Other jobs outside requiring attention include hedges which can be clipped now and given a mulch which also applies to other ornamental trees and shrubs around the garden where this has not already been done. It pays, however, to moisten the ground beforehand, and, if fresh sawdust is being used, to apply some blood and bone or sulphate of ammonia at the same time. Mulching not only helps to conserve moisture but suppresses a good percentage of the probable weed growth, and will be found to be an excellent soil conditioner, too.

Lawn mowing should continue with regularity, leaving the clippings as a mulch, particularly in areas subject to drying out and where it is not possible to apply water regularly. The height of cut should be adjusted, so as to leave a slightly larger sward, by dropping the position of the roller fractionally on the mower. Glasshouses will require shading and this can be done by applying a hydrated lime wash to the glass.

Ventilation and moisture are important aspects of glasshouse management during the warmer weather and damping down of floors and vents should be maintained whenever the plants are being watered.

Tomato plants will also appreciate light overhead spraying on hot and humid days. This also assists frujt set. It is, of course, no longer necessary to rely on this method as there are available proprietary fruit-setting hormones which can be sprayed on as soon as the flowers open. Feeding should begin only after the second truss of fruit has set and the fruits on the first one are beginning to swell. Watering, however, can begin immediately the second truss has set.