Tips On Plant Photography

Press, Volume CIV, Issue 30744, 7 May 1965, Page 6

Tips On Plant Photography

The keen horticultural photographer has a tremendous range of subject matter—from close-ups of choice blooms to wild or spectacular bush scenes. It is proposed to look at some of the aspects of this branch of photography. The simple camera is almost foolproof when used in suitable conditions, preferably in good light. Its scope is severely limited in that it has few settings to cope with extreme conditions where, for instance, a faster shutter speed or a large lens aperture is called for.

With a more expensive camera the user may work under extreme conditions. He is able to select speeds ranging from time exposures to. at least, one-thousandth of a second. His lens apertures are equally flexible. Furthermore. with interchangeable lenses subject matter may be greatly magnified.

RIGHT APPROACH What does influence a picture very much is the general approach to getting the image on film. An important point to good photography is to experiment with a few films of different make and speed, select one and stick to it.

In this way you will learn its characteristics under certain conditions when used in your camera, by you. If you are observant and keep a record of your exposures, which is the ideal way to improve technique, you may then make allowances for certain conditions as they occur. Recommendations generally advise that a camera should not be hand-held for shutter speeds of less than about onethirtieth of a second. But irrespective of whether one thinks a steady hand is

possessed, a tripod is a very sound investment. It enables a set position to be held until just the right moment —a bee alighting on a blossom, for example. A lens hood is a worthy acquisition, to avoid direct sunlight on the lens and extraneous reflections on the film.

Filters could perhaps be regarded as inessential to the average photographer, with the exception of the U.V. or ultra-violet filter, which is particularly important with colour film as it prevents disturbing blue casts. It may be left on when using black and white film without adverse; effects and helps to keep the lens free from dust particles - which are always present in the air.

Weather conditions will greatly influence picture taking and one should refrain from taking photographs, especially those requiring depth, in very brilliant sunshine, on very dull days and in windy weather. Too much or too little sun gives a very flat picture. Too much movement of the subject precludes photography when it is windy, as even slight movement requires a much faster shutter speed. A bright day which provides some shaddow for contrast is best.

Many potentially excellent photographs are ruined because the photographer has insufficient patience and literally “snaps” at what takes his fancy. A little more time, thought and selection would make, all the difference. SELECTION First of all, unless you are looking for freaks or specific irregularities in shape, size or otherwise, select a truly representative bush, tree or flower, and avoid those with blemishes or other likely distractions. Position yourself in a selected spot and examine the subject matter critically . through the camera viewfinder. Try various angles. Centralise the plant, or portion of it, and exclude any distracting background. This applies particularly in the use of black and white film. It is most disappointing to see a misplaced branch or some other object drawing the eye away from what might otherwise be an excellent effort. Where close-ups are attempted particular care must be taken to get sufficient depth of field for all essentials in the compositions to stand out sharply. This may be obtained in a number of ways, depending on the camera. It is important to remember that the more the lens is stopped down, e.g. the f number is increased say from f 8 to f!6, the greater the depth of field. As depth of field varies according to the .focal length of the lens, the instruction book should be consulted.

BACKDROPS It is possible to use screens as a backdrop to accentuate the plant or flower. This is particularly important in black and white photography when the light is not

so good and 'enlargement is contemplated. On these occasions strategically placed light coloured paper, board or sheets at the sides and in the immediate foreground will help to throw additional light on the subject. This will be readily appreciated by those who do their own developing and printing. METER USEFUL

An exposure meter is useful, especially when taking bushy subjects which require more careful consideration. Because of the contrast of the sunlit upper surfaces and the shadow-packed lower portions. an average exposure reading must be taken from these two extremes. Otherwise an extremely flat photograph. with little depth and a black or underexposed shadowed area will result. When taking an exposure reading hold the meter so that the reading is of the subject and not, as often happens, the sky. Another way of overcoming this problem is by filling in with flash.

Even the most proficient photographers find it impossible to achieve 100 per cent success with every film or plate exposed so do not be disheartened if results are not always what were hoped for.

It is impossible to learn how to take good photographs just by reading about the subject or having it explained. Success comes by trial and error, by observation, patience and practice. The pocket notebook can be a mine of information if recordings of exposures and conditions are made and later referred to.