Correct Lawn Maintenance Will Defeat Moss Problem

Press, Volume CI, Issue 29891, 3 August 1962, Page 6

Correct Lawn Maintenance Will Defeat Moss Problem

Moss seems to be causing trouble among home gardeners and there have been several inquiries about bow to control it It would seem, therefore, appropriate to discuss this problem at more length than is possible in '•Gardeners’ Queries." Moss spreads in neglected, weak and open turf and such ! factors as bad aeration, bad drainage, low fertility, high ; acidity and shade may be predisposing factors. Its presence cannot be attributed to any one cause, but is usually the result of two or more. The presence of moss is most commonly attributed to

bad drainage, but moss more commonly appears on light, well-drained soils than or, the heavier and wetter ones High acidity is said to favour it, but it is often found under conditions of high alkalinity One common cause of moss is insufficient top soil, noticeable on lawns on hillsides Shady lawns seem to be prone to it whilst undulations on lawns that are skimmed by the mower quickly become colonised. How, then, is control to be achieved? Correct lawn maintenanc< throughout the year is mos‘ important Regular mowing watering in the dry months topdressing and the spiking

of well established lawns—all help to keep the grass in a healthy, flourishing condition whjph gives the moss little chance of establishing itself. Mowing Systematic mowing induces grass tillering and Limits weed growth. Experiments nave proved that frequent moderately high cutting throughout the growing seaion gives a superior lawn. At the risk of making myself exceedingly unpopular, I retommend three mowings a week, weather and fitness permitting. In dry weather, clippings can be left where they fall to act as a mulch but they should always be removed when the weather is at all wet To keep the lawn growing and to discourage the growth of weeds and moss bi-annual application of three parts of sulphate of ammonia and one part of superphosphate should be applied in March or April, and again in August or September, at the rate of one ounce to the square yard. Watering The watering of lawns should be started before the advent of the dry weather, whilst the grass is still green and before browning begins. A sprinkler is the best means of applying water and sufficient should be given, and regularly, to wet the soil below tlie full depth of the roots. Flooding can be contemplated as an alternative to the use of sprinklers. Your lawn, however, has moss in it and an immediate campaign must be planned. There are a number of remedies that have been found to be successful under various conditions. Lawn sand is a reasonably cheap method of spot treatment and is made up of six parts of sulphate of ammonia and one part of sulphate of iron, to one part of sand and is applied at the rate of an ounce to the square yard. Poison Spray If this treatment does not have the desired effect, vigorously rake the moss to open it up to allow penetration of a poison spray. All mossy and weed patches which contain weeds such as plantains, chickweed and pearlwort can be sprayed with arsenic pentoxide at the strength of one gallon to 20 square yards at the maker’s recommendations. This is a deadly poison and every care should be taken with it. Even distribution is essential as too much in any one spot will burn the lawn. It is best applied in the autumn when the grass is more or less dormant. An alternative is the use of a proprietary brand of moss killer that contains sodium pentachloride. Application is made just before spring growth. Again, follow the maker’s instructions.

Once the moss has been killed, the area should be raked over, topdressed with fresh soil and resown with grass seed, or moss may invade your lawn again.