Gardeners’ Queries....

Press, Volume CI, Issue 29767, 9 March 1962, Page 6

Gardeners’ Queries....

Can you advise me on the chances of successfully growing Eucalyptus flcifolia in Ellesmere? What is the best method of protecting frost tender trees, and how many years will this be necessary? (J„ Ellesmere.)

I am rather doubtful about the chances of success with this plant in your area. It is possible that you may succeed if you protect it tor the first two or three years. When young it will be cut by frosts exceeding seven or eight degrees, so that careful attention in these stages is vital. A cover of some insulating material will be best as winter protectionstraw made into a thatch, or manuka brushwood panels, so that they can be quickly removed during the warmth of the day and replaced at night. Sacking on poles could be useful but is not quite so insulating. Polythene has little or no value for the job. I’m afraid I cannot help over the ribbonwood. It looks rather like caterpillar damage in the tips, but the specimen had deteriorated

Could you tell me the name of the enclosed peach? It was given us as a stone, and this is the first really good crop from It. (“Peach").

When a plant which is the result of much crossing is raised from seed the seedling is not true to the name of the parent It frequently shows distinct differences from it. This is true in the case of the peach, and this is why your peach cannot be named It is a new plant which, if of good enough quality and sufficiently distinct from other peach varieties, may be given a new name This is true with all fruits which are commonly grown—apples pears. plums, apricots, and so on, but is not true where a plant has a uniform genetic character, as in the case of. say, vegetable varieties raised from seed. In this latter case stabilisation of the seed “line" is part of the job that the breeder carries out before seed release so that it does breed true.

1 have a problem wjth my raspberry bushes. Berries are targe and of good flavour, but every year, about a month before fruit ripens the older canes go yellow. I feel sure that this cuts down the yield. The younger canes are quite a good green, but whether I leave the canes in from season to season or replant it seems to make no difference. My geraniums do not bloom much—would that be dne to the need for renewal? (D.J.8.. Ashburton.)

This type of query is most difficult to answer satisfactorily without specimens. It could possibly be due to the attack of silver leaf, which is assuming importance In raspberry growing these days, but I am more inclined to think that it is an abnormal condition brought about by dry conditions and a light soil Perhaps you could send me samples next season Old geraniums may be renovated by cutting hard back in the spring, and they will flower much more freely afterwards. Where you have established plants this method may be more convenient than striking cuttings and replanting, and will have much the same effect Don’t forget that even geraniums have to feed! Give them a dressing of mixed fertiliser next spring a couple of ounces to the square yard.

Can you tell me: <1) A sprav to eradicate periwinkle which is well established and under plum trees? (2) What is the matter with the pear shoots enclosed? One branch has turned reddish in the leaves. (3) What is the matter with the rose foliage enclosed? The leaves are covered with small orangy spots on the underside. (J.M., Banks Peninsula.)

There ts no spray which can be recommended as a periwinkle control at present. I’m

afraid forking out followed by repeated hoeings are the only measure. I can find no trouble with the pear foliage. There is certainly no recognised pest or disease on it. It is possibly the effect of a dry season, coupled with the borer you say is present. I would leave nature to take her own course The rose foliage is affected with rose rust, which has now largelyturned to the black stage which occurs in late summer and autumn. Rose varieties vary considerably in their susceptibility. which would account for its presence on one plant only Copper and sulphur sprays will be effective, starting about midDecember

The leaves on my grape vine turned rusty a month or so ago. It was planted about two and a half years ago and is fruiting quite well. It has had a liberal supply of water, but Is In a hot situation, of course. The leaves on some butter beans growing elose by have a similar appearance. (King St.)

Your plants are almost certainly affected with Red Spider Mite, which is worst under hot, dry conditions, and in dry seasons See this page for a detailed answer.