“Ready-Mades” The In European Fashion

Press, Volume C, Issue 29709, 30 December 1961, Page 2

“Ready-Mades” The In European Fashion

(By th* Ww.m’i Editor of the “Financial Times", London] Whatever Europe can do in other respects, and in spite of Paris leadership in couture, no Continental country has built up a ready-made fashion business which can operate on a national, let alone .an international scale. There is still- little overseas to cater for any price category between the expensive boutique or custom-made clothing and the cheaper local dressmaker business.

There has, however, been considerable expansion on the Continent in the retail side, with department and bazaar store chains expanding steadily and looking for centralised sources of supply. Given the advantage of being able to buy European duty-free textiles, the British fashion maker-up looks likely to have things pretty much his own way. Generally speaking, however, he must adjust his present attitude. Rather than wait for the buyer to come to him, he must be prepared to take his goods out to the buyer. Twice-yearly group promotions during London fashion weeks have undoubtedly done much to establish London as an off-the-peg Paris, but they have attracted fewer orders from Europe (E.F.T.A. countries exeeptedi than from America and the Commonwealth The prestige they gain needs now to be followed up with on-the-spot selling. Inconsiderate This stay-at-home attitude, which is still true of most companies is not the only criticism levelled by Continental buyers. Too aften, they assert, we make little effort to study their climates and living conditions, so that the stvles offered are unsuitable. All too often, prices are quoted in sterling and at exfactory rates, little attempt being made to give any indication of what the garment will cost in the buyer’s currency and at its final destination. Deliveries generally tend to be slow and repeats almost impossible. And, frequently, the clothes offered are replicas of the sort of thing that can be made in the buying country—which would rather see the woollens, tweeds, worsteds and traditional British lines which can hardly ever be well made outside the United Kingdom. In Britain, the manufacturers complain that there is little profit in export sales until the tariff-free days arrive, when some reckon to double and even treble their orders. However, a longsighted few believe in early consolidation before that time and emphasise that even on smaller profit margins overseas, sales have the advantage of keeping their production capacity working all the year round instead of slumping between the two peak seasons of the home market. Public Industry There is a general feeling that British sales also need some reorganisation. On the

whole, the fashion industry has grown rapidly in 10 or 12 years, emerging from the family business into the public industry stage. Many firms have, as a result, adopted modern methods of production, costing, stock control and gelling. There are. however, a number who still cling to the old family business methods—in fact, the larger companies which are constantly on the watch for new acquisitions complain that die greatest shortage in the fashion business is management. Although the manufacturers have progressed, they contend that the retailers have not moved with the times, and suggest that the traditional methods of buying from the makers is outdated in view of faster production. Traditionally, the store buyer is also the department manager, coping with two different and full-time jobs. Ideally, say most of the manufacturers, each department should have its manager somebody with an understanding of stock terms, of administration, of accounting and budgets. The buyer should then work in close touch with the manager to find suitable lines which will fill up the gaps in merchandise stocks and ensure some kind of seasonal continuity. Another complaint made by some is that there are too many individual buyers. Stores are full of varied departments, set up at strategic points to catch the wandering shopper. "Antiquated” Why not, suggest many manufacturers, a small team of expert buyers catering for all retail fashion departments, co-ordinating their purchases according to the manager’s requirements even duplicating some styles in a few departments. This would rule out the rather pointless internal rivalry: would procure easier and quicker deliveries to centnahsed bulk orders; and would give the public what they want, when they want it, instead of thrusting upon them summer dresses in February and winter clothes in August. Off-season buying, and buying of insufficient stocks when they are available, are freqently the result of a rather antiquated system of budgeting which allows the store buyer only a limited sum every month. If she spends her month’s limit, she cannot re-order. If she