Radical Gardening

Press, Volume C, Issue 29535, 9 June 1961, Page 8

Radical Gardening

Specially written for “ The Press “

by

S. Challenger

Ltcttrtr in Htrtinlturt, = Canterbury Agricultural Callage.

Planning The Garden...

(No. S of a Series)

The various features which go towards making a good design have been considered, and a plan drawn up of the section. We have now to arrange . the features we want in a way that is going to be both practical and aesthetically pleasing. One of the first snags that most persons run up against is in tending to think in terms of too much detail. There is only one satisfactory way to avoid getting bogged down in detail and giving up in disgust—think of the garden as consisting of beds for plants, paving or pathways of other types, and lawn. These three items cover most of the uses for garden floor space that there is, can be visualised quickly at the outset, and the detail filled in, later. So think of a bed here and a bed there when working out - the basic plan

and then decide what is going to be planted in them at a later stage. A second point that is most Important is to associate together those features which are likely to be Used together. The purely functional parts of a garden—the vegetables, fruit, potting shed and glasshouse. and even garage, should, as far as possible, be grouped into a single unit. It’s much more convenient to work that way. and you’re not bothered with those odd bits and pieces which can be so destructive to good design. The ornamental parts of the garden are also grouped together, but it is best if you make a conscious division into two groups—one which is the ornamental part of the garden you can use—your own personal and private domain which cannot be seen from the street, and the other, purely display area, which cannot be used for actual “living-out”—the front garden which faces the street. It is useless as an actual extension area of the house, but there are few persons who are brave enough to risk public opinion and put a paling fence at the front to be able to use that portion of the garden for living. Most persons put a good face on things, plan the front for display, and leave it at that. Around the house I very definitely prefer to see a border which can be used tor planting bedding or small shrubs against the foundations. Nothing looks meaner than concrete run direct to the wall of the house. You ean’t walk direct against the wall of the house, so why put concrete there? This border should be about 2ft 6in to 3ft wide,, depending, as I emphasised at the outset of this series, on the general proportions elsewhere. In this border can be planted suitable shrubs wnich don't grow too tall, are preferably evergreen, so as to screen the foundations at all seasons. and which will tolerate the dry conditions there, protected by the overhang. Actually, the worst corner from this aspect is the one facing nor'-west, which gets hardly any rain at all. Under

windows it is best to plant rather smaller material so that windows can be cleaned without difficulty. The front section often causes a great deal of bother. Many home gardeners tend to become mesmerised by the fact that it is square or oblong. Lawns tend to follow this pattern, and neat beds three feet wide run parallel with the house and boundary fences. There is no need to do this. Even the skewing of a lawn produces a much pleasanter effect. It is as well to avoid the "shut-off” effect produced by running a border parallel with the drive, too. Where the lawn is open and accessible to the person entering the drive a much friendlier atmosphere is produced. Here is a case where standard roses are used ad nauseum. I have nothing against standard roses —if they are used in the right place—which is at the back of a rose bed to give it enhanced height and appearance. But standard roses down the drive, on the very edges as they often are. are distinctly in the wrong place for good effects —they say “Keep off the grass—keep to the straight and narrow,” very definitely. Try to make a feature to be seen in the far corner of the front section, and looked at across the lawn. It adds invitation. It could be a littJe group of conifers, chosen for contrast in colour, size and form; or a group of shrubs for bark colour. A specimen small tree —one of the crab apples for example—could be very acceptable. Or even a few plants and an archway, which give the impression of “something round the corner." Then frame it with a specimen plant on either side of the front section, planted two or three feet inside the front boundary line. If low planting joins these two plants there is no interruption to the view seen from the street, and yet the person inside the house has something to look out on and enjoy. An oblong lawn placed on the skew produces triangular borders which are much easier to handle in producing good effects, for they give you a little depth to play with,

whilst split-level lawns, as long as the levels are not too different, can give good effects in the areas where they can be used. There are numerous ways of tackling the problem. (To be concluded next week.)