IV.Z. Alpine Party Returns From Expedition To Andes

Press, Volume XCIX, Issue 29325, 3 October 1960, Page 15

IV.Z. Alpine Party Returns From Expedition To Andes

(New Zealand Press Association)

AUCKLAND, October 2. “New Zeeland mountaineering has been given a boost with the successes of the New Zealand Alpine Club’s Andes expedition.” said the leader, Mr L. Warburton, of Invercargill, on his arrival with two other members of the party m the Iberia at Auckland yesterday. Mr Warburton's companions are Messrs R. Wood, of Invercargill, and L. Crawford, of Christchurch Mr Crawford, who has frostbitten feet, has been receiving daily treatment from the Iberia’s surgeon. He has lest the top off the big toe of his left foot because of gangrene and will have to have a skin graft in Christchurch. The expedition was the first to climb Mount Cayesh (18,770 ft in the Andes after two Swiss parties and an American expedition had failed. “After three weeks' unsuccessful searching for a route to the summit, the expedition got together and said: ‘Hell, we can’t go back to New Zealand as failures’.” said Mr Warburton. "So we made a renewed effort and reached the top. “Although the summit was only

750 ft from Camp II it took two days to reach it The first day was spent on recoonaisance and the final assault party set out at 7 am. on the second day,” said Mr Warburton. “The three of us in Camp II saw them reach the summit and we went wild with joy,” he said. “We opened a bottle of whisky which we had brought from home and celebrated .the victory. “Then we sang the New Zealand National Anthem and the Peruvian National Anthem with our Indian guides around a bonfire which we had lit for the occasion." On 10,000 ft Mount Huaras, Mr Crawford developed pneumonia, which is exceedingly dangerous at high altitudes. Fortunately, a supply of oxygen was obtained from a nearby mine, and be recovered from tile attack in six days. The expedition also reached a point 300 ft below the summit of the south peak of Mount Huascaran (22240ft)—the highest in Peru—by a route which had never been used before. Only time and frostbite prevented the climbers from reaching the top.