Garden Notes VEGETABLES LIKE THE HOT WEATHER WITH COOL NIGHTS

Press, Volume XCVII, Issue 28523, 28 February 1958, Page 12

Garden Notes VEGETABLES LIKE THE HOT WEATHER WITH COOL NIGHTS

{Specially written tor “ The Press "I

[By

T. D. LENNIE,

A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.]

Friday, February 28, 1958. January and February are the normal hay-making, harvesting and fruit ripening periods. Dry weather is needed for these operations, and Nature knows its business in seeing that no undue obstacles are placed in the way. It follows then that vegetation responds. It is provided with the ability to withstand periods of drought and therefore mishaps during the summer are few, for ripening the crop is th 6 paramount consideration.

We next see the ripening process carried on into March, which is the autumn, and have only to survey the abundant clusters of bright red Rowan berries now about, to recognise the fact. In another sense, it means that summer has passed, although fine weather and hot days definitely have not.

Many plants appreciate the cooler nights. One has only to note the impressive growth of tomatoes and dahlias over the last week to realise that these are cold night plants. The cooler nights of autumn are close at hand and the hot days of summer are waning. Flowers may be fewer on the borders but they will last longer which is satisfactory in itself.

Weeding is not a hard job at this time of the year because the normal thinning of spring and early summer reduced the natural increase. A relapse from careful watching will soon bring the plague back again. Reducing the weeds now will mean less work in the early winter. They can be added to the compost heap, if free of seeds, and so earn their keep. Seeds to sow include cabbage for using in early spring. Greyhound, Ellams Early, Flower of Spring and Enfield Market are all suitable kinds. Sow thinly to get stocky plants that will harden up well. Lettuce can be sown, as also carrot, spinach, turnip, beet, silver beet, perpetua' spinach, endive and parsley. A sprinkling of mustard, cress and radish will also help late in the season salads. Tomato laterals should be removed as they appear on the main stems and fruit picked as they colour. A watering of sulphate of potash at loz to the gallon will help a lot. Prepare the ground for onion sowing in three or four weeks time. March 17 is about right for sowing. Onions can be grown on the same site for several years if the ground is open, sunny and well manured. All these factors are essential to the growth of firm, well ripened bulbs. The ground must be deeply dug and well manured. Lime, soot and wood ashes can be added during the growing season. It may therefore be wise to harvest the present crop to enable such work as the above to be carried out. The present crop could be lifted for sun drying elsewhere, or could be tied in bundles by the tops for hanging up somewhere. Planted greens should be dusted with derris or lindane to control the butterfly grub. If aphis is evident, lindane or nicotine sulphate will do the job. Composting should be in full swing to accumulate as much as possible for spring work. There is so much waste material from the garden and house that can be put to no better use. It is good to see the Government recommending the practice and calling the attention of public authorities to undertake municipal composting. This action though belated is deliberate, for large cities overseas and several towns in New Zealand have proved the efficiency and economy of utilising town sewage and garbage. But the possibilities of composting are not, yet fully grasped by the farmer and large grower. FRUIT GARDEN Brown rot is a serious disease on- peach and nectarine fruits. Although spraying is a partial control, other steps are -necessary. Breaking off and removal of fruit buds carrying the rotted fruit is advisable, and in winter all fallen leaves and tree debris should be well dug in to break the infection. Pears, cherries, plums, could have a final spraying with arsenate of lead if the black pear slug or leech is evident. Apples also if the roller grub is chewing the fruit. Raspberries, loganberries, boysen berries which have leaf holes or stripped foliage should be sorayed with arsenate of lead. Before spraying, cut out the old wooded canes which have served their purpose. FLOWER GARDEN Roses, dwarf, climbing and standard will be the better for

some attention now. Spent bloom stems should be removed well down. This will help the second blooming in the autumn which is always worth while. A spray with Cosan or Bordeaux will control mildew. If black spot is evident, a spray with Thiram or Cuprax will suffice. Climbing roses have made many strong shoots, all of which are not needed. Keep sufficient to clothe the supports when the old growths are removed in the winter and the plants will benefit. This means that all old or dead wood must be cut out.

The bulb-planting season has now arrived. Most gardens rely on bulbs largely for a spring display. Preparations include deep digging of the areas. Some form of animal manure or compost should be included when digging. Bulbs for hot, dry positions include freesias, sparaxis, romulea, scillas, snowflakes, tritonias, nerines and amaryellis. Most others favour an open all-weather position. It is opportune to sjow flower seeds, either under glass or in a clean shaded spot out of doors. Far-seeing gardeners will be sowing perennials for mass display next summer, and quite a selection can be made. Another class is important also, because some hardy annuals can now be scattered about in suitable spaces where they are to flower, for they will fill in admirably a season of scarcity in the garden in October and November. Such plants are godetia, calendula, candytuft, memophila, viscaria, cornflower, mignonette, etc. Rockery and edging plants can be propagated by divisions. Weeding should not be relaxed. Where twitch has grown into herbaceous clumps, lift the clumps free it from the twitch and replant. Iris of the bearded or stylosa section can be lifted to replant or restrict. Division can be done by spade work. Discard the old, central portions. The ragged foliage on the latter can be cut back for neatness’s sake. It is often a haven and a breeding place for slugs and snails. Complete layering of carnations. Cutting is a term meant to convey a system of plant propagation. Most garden plants can be so increased and with geraniums, fuchsias, hydrangeas, gazanias, arctotis and carnations, the time is now opportune. With geraniums, the cuttings should be allowed to dry a little before planting. Cuttings of firm season’s growth are required. Cut off just below a leaf nodule, put into a good sandy mixture, shaded from the sun for two to three weeks. With last three named, pull off and slightly trim both ends. Before putting the cuttings into the soil, moisten the end. dip into a hormone rooting powder. This has a wonderful effect in assuring quick root production. Thin out side shoots from dahlias where overstrong clumps are showing, and remember that it is advisable to rub off Side buds as they form, leaving only the terminal one to be produced, in the same way as chrysanthemums. ANSWERS TO CORREPONDENTS Beach Road, Kaikoura. — (1) Your weed is the wild Pylethrum. The hormone liquid 24D or Dee See P. would be effective by spraying but may require a second application if the first is not 100 per cent, certain. (2) A good hedge plant for your seaside location is the Ake-Ake (Olearia Forsteri). Could you not get sufficient good soil to cover the roots when planting in winter time? Church Street, Rangiora.— Your raspberries are troubled with raspberry mildew. This disease can largely be suppressed by regular spraying in winter and spring. Advice is regularly given in this column as to when and what to do. Meantime cut out all this season’s fruiting canes for burning and give the bed a good manuring. The best of the new canes then left should be sprayed with Bordeaux.