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Garden Notes LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS SELDOM SPOKEN TODAY

{Specially written for " The Press ”]

[By

T. D. LENNIE.

N.Z.I

A.H.R.I.H.

Friday, January 24, 1958. The kindly thought of a local lady sending a sprig of rosemary to the Antarctic to be placed on Captain Scott’s grave serves more than one purpose. It would certainly attain her object of paying respect to an old-time friend. It also revives an old custom which in this changing world is liable to slide into oblivion and leave us all the poorer thereby, for rosemary means remembrance in the language of flowers.There was a time—the Victorian era—when this language of flowers had a meaning, and a gift of flowers would be made to convey a hidden message. At the time botanical naming was not so general as it is today, and most English flowers had a descriptive name only. Thus rosemary for remembrance; pansy for heart’s ease or solace; laurel leaves for victory; the lily for reverence or purity; the rose for love; violet for fragrance, etc. Indeed most plants had a name indicating either appearance, habit or to connect with place or person. Thus we get Canterbury bells, sweet william, wallflower, meadow sweet, snowdrop, globe flower or trollius, day lily (Figuidia), garland flower (Daphne), myosotis or forget-me-not, *and helianthus (sunflower). Many of these still suffice because they are easier to remember than their botanical equivalents. I cannot see them passing out either for that reason, but in the other case—the language of flowers—the custom is changing in favour of orchids. FLOWER GARDEN Chrysanthemums must be staked, and where they are at all crowded, the stems should be thinned out. Black aphis appearing in clusters on the points of growth should be sprayed with nicotine sulphate. Lower leaves showing brown should be picked off. The cause is the well known rust. Lime sulphur should then be sprayed. A new trouble—the gall midge, threatens chrysanthemums and growers should be on the watch for it. The midge operates in the leaves or stem and should be looked for as small gatherings in the leaves when the eggs hatch out. It is controlled by spraying monthly during growth, using D.D.T. emulsion, or nicotine sulphate. Carefully examine young shoots for the tiny midge inside. At present most gardens are a blaze of colour with the borders and spaces well filled with colourful flowers, so that there may be little need for additions or replacements. Where other conditions obtain it is still possible to plant things to flower in March or April when most of the early-planted annuals will have passed their best. Good late things for the purpose include marigolds, asters, zinnias, antirrhinums. lobelia, verbena. Canterbury bells and carnations. Or if a more simple way is desired of effectively filling odd spaces, scatter thinly seeds of quick growing annuals such as godetia, cornflower, viscaria, linum, linaria or candytuft. These will bloom into winter. Many perennials are now at their best, justifying their bulk use on the borders. . Perennial phlox in particular can be mentioned as excellent. They, are neat and compact in growth, produce a wonderful blaze of colour and last for weeks. Indeed they may be said to rival hydrangeas for mass display. This is a good time to propagate geraniums by cuttings, using pieces of new well hardened shoots. Dipping the ends in a rooting hormone powder gives quick and sure results. If one has greenhouse facilities, many ther plants—petunias, hydrangeas, fuchsias and pentstemon, can also be taken. Some spring flowering bulbs can be lifted if desired. Tulips are best lifted each summer and where narcissus have been in the same position for three or four years, they will be all the better for lifting, drying off for a month, and being replanted in a.different place. This will give a chance to discard any soft bulbs which will indicate eelworm —a deadly trouble in established clumps. The compost heap should be conspicuous now by reason of the amount of vegetable matter available. The sooner the box can be

filled the better as heat Is generated and not wasted by isolated filling. All green waste except bracken should be so used, and if alternated with lawn clippings, sawdust, lime, earth and kitchen refuse or blood and bone, it should be possible to turn it in a month or six weeks to have a wonderful amount of humic soil within three months. Do not neglect the lawn. Grass grub may show its presence when the hot weather really comes and for this a good watering with arsenate, lindane or temul will be necessary. VEGETABLE GARDEN Easily the most important job of the moment is consideration of the winter supply of the cabbage family, for these should be planted in January to give them a fair chance of developing good heads. It really* takes six months for these, also celery and leek, to come to maturity. A well composted trench for celery and leeks with a good spread lightly dug in for the others. Broccoli, kale, and sprouts should be allowed 2|ft between plants with rather less for savoy cabbage and kohlrabi. Where the early peas or potatoes were grown should be a good position for these winter things. Sow cabbage, carrots, lettuce, parsley, beet, turnips and radish. Stake peas and runner beans while young. Both should be well watered. Plant lettuce to maintain succession, as it soon runs to seed. Put stout stakes at 6ft intervals along a sweet corn row, using binder twine to keep the canes erect. Avoid stagnation in vegetable crops by keeping the soil loose by hoeing and make use of a surface mulch between the rows of an inch thick layer of sawdust or lawn clippings. Carrot, parsnip and beet rows should be thinned out to prevent overcrowding. A row of early peas for Easter can be sown. Where any sizeable plot is idle, sow down in cape barley or lupin or mustard to dig in about midwinter for green manuring. Rhubarb loves moisture, and will benefit from liquid manure, made either from farm manure or artificial manure. Tomatoes are growing well and should be helped by tying to stake and nipping out side shoots when quite small. Setting of the cluster is much helped by artificial fertilising. This can be achieved by lightly spraying a hormone fruit fix on the flower or using a small piece of fur over them to lightly shift the pollen. It is surprising how fruit is increased and improved in this way. It would be wise also to give the plants a watering to which sulphate of potash is added as a help towards checking blotchy ripening. With this trouble the fruits show a hard green core which does not soften or ripen, and quite spoils the fruit. If the asparagus bed is densely covered it would be wise to cut out some of the stems, choosing those showing prominent flower buds. FRUIT GARDEN The bronze beetle is now on the wing. This night-flying insect does a lot of harm by eating the foliage of many shrubs, from rose to rowan. The pear slug will soon be evident on pear, cherry, and plum leaves. The control of both is arsenate of lead, sprayed on at first sign. Turning the hose on to all fruiting trees is both refreshing and necessary when the fruits are swelling. . Be on the safe side by spraying peach, nectarine and walnut trees with lime sulphur at two tablespoons to one gallon of water. It is by no means certain trees are free of leaf curl, mildew or other fungus diseases. Much of the surplus spreading canes of raspberry can be dug or forked out. Aim to leave not more than a dozen of the best canes in the meantime. Then spray these and loganberry with arsenate of lead. If you have a very healthy apple or other fruit tree that refuses to bear, try the wire branding process. Use a flexible wire, pass it twice round a smooth low portion of the main stem, tight enough just to compress the bark. Leave it on for six weeks and see the effect next season. It is really a form of summer Pining- . The runners on Strawberry

plants should be pinched off past the first young plant to give it a chance to build itself up for transferring in March or April, when a new bed can be made up.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19580124.2.141

Bibliographic details

Press, Volume XCVII, Issue 28493, 24 January 1958, Page 13

Word Count
1,404

Garden Notes LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS SELDOM SPOKEN TODAY Press, Volume XCVII, Issue 28493, 24 January 1958, Page 13

Garden Notes LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS SELDOM SPOKEN TODAY Press, Volume XCVII, Issue 28493, 24 January 1958, Page 13

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