NEED TO THIN OUT GRAPES OBVIOUS BEFORE HARVEST

Press, Volume XCIII, Issue 27913, 9 March 1956, Page 13

NEED TO THIN OUT GRAPES OBVIOUS BEFORE HARVEST

GARDEN NOTES

[Specially Written for "The Press”] [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.)

Friday, March 9, 1956 I hope I may be pedmitted to ask a question this week. Have you thinned out your grape bunches? These fruits are now colouring up nicely, and the answer to the question will be self-evident on examination of the vine, and will no doubt cause many growers to resolve to do better next year. If we examine the fruit clusters now, the necessity of thinning the fruit about New Year time becomes clear. Thinned bunches will be well coloured all over, with the fruits half an inch in diameter or more, and still swelling, to a promising orderly bunch. Those unthinned will have a proportion of nicely-coloured berries, with probably a greater number of green berries, ranging down to wheat size. It will be noticed that only the largest berries on these bunches are colouring. It becomes clear that only those few coloured ones will be of any merit, and that those numerous undersized berries have simply been a drag on the sap supply, whereas their early removal would have materialy helped the survivors. Those undersized berries are unfertilised. and as such have no interest for nature, and will not increase beyond that stage. Properly thinned bunches will develop into an even display of massed berries—a joy to behold and a satisfactory end to an otherwise tedious job. FLOWER GARDEN Just now geranium foliage is reasonably whole and healthy, but soon holes will appear on the leaves, increasing rapidly to make the plants look very shabby. This is caused by the presence of looper grubs—green and up to an inch in length. They are usually found on the backs of leaves, and at first are quite small. It is at this stage that the control should be applied—derris or three-in-one dust well shaken over the foliage, or arsenate of lead sprayed on in water. The control should be repeated before Easter. Polyanthus and auriculas can be broken up to replant in their flowering places. Old clumps cannot sustain vigour without a new setting. Another seasonal job is the sowing of flower seeds for next season. Apart from the pleasure of growing new strains, there is the material fact of having a stock of plants for next summer’s display. Bulb planting often consists of opening a soil hole and placing the bulb, but more than that should be done seeing that previous occupants of the patch have impoverished the ground. Some quantity of fertiliser or compost should be worked in before the planting, and if this can be done well in advance, so much the better. Similar preparations before sowing sweet peas should also be made.

First choice with most gardeners are the narcissus, hyacinth, and tulip, to be got now in modern colours and great variety. Where most bulbs achieve distinction is in their permanence, for once planted they go on flowering and increasing their stock, whereas anemones and ranunculus are best planted each year. Bulbs of the less used type which, however, justify a more extended use are English and Dutch iris, the ixia, early flowering or Colville gladioli, the antholysa, chionodoxa, montbretia, scillas or wood hyacinth, and babianas. These will add variety and distinction to the borders, and also lengthen the flowering season right up to Christmas time. It would not be fitting to omit reference to the old-time early flowering favourites—crocus, snowdrop, freesia, and sparaxis, for no garden is complete without these harbingers of spring. Dahlias are now recovering from last month’s hailstorm, and with help in the way of thinning out side shoots and some disbudding of flower clusters. will regain their autumn glory. Growing bulbs of hyacinth or narcissus in fibre or in vases of water is an attractive winter effort. Other bulbs can also be so grown, bpt present greater difficulties than those mentioned.

Blue is by no means a common colour in flowers and therefore always esteemed in the garden as a foil to brighten up the greenery. Just now several attractive plants giving free range to this colour are proving the case. Ceratostigma Willmottii is one of them with its vivid sky-glue terminal clusters, which bedeck the plant for three months and are not afraid of frosts. Salvia uliginosus, is another, with polar blue spikes growing four to five feet high. Its chief fault is in growing too freely and spreading, but this can be controlled and

overlooked for its general effectiveness. Among the Michaelmas daisies, Plenty is one of the . best. It bears large flowers more than an inch across and well spaced on the stems. It is good for cutting. VEGETABLE GARDEN With the autumn sowing of onions close at hand, preparations are important. This includes digging over of the soil and the addition of a good coating of compost or fine sheep manure to be lightly forked in. If a fertiliser is being used, apply this at the time of sowing the seed, as it. should be placed along the seed line and two inches under the seed. Onions relish a soil rich in organic matters, with the addition of loz of potash to the yard row. Cabbage seed can be sown for spring use. Good kinds for the purpose are Flower of Spring. Golden Acre, Enfield Market and Ellam’s Early. Sow also a row of silver beet or perpetual spinach and another of Golden Ball turnip. These will grow through the winter, and come in handy for spring use. Carrot and beet may also be sown in the hope that we get a favourable winter. Watch for colonies of grey aphis on cabbage in sheltered positions. Spray with nicotine sulphate or another good insecticide. The dry summer has been favourable to the spread of this pest. All kinds of winter cabbage should be kept well dusted with derris to control grubs. Potatoes can be dug and vacant spaces sown with barley. lupin, or mustard for green manuring. If it is necessary to water growing crops, do it thoroughly with a good soaking. This aoplies specially to cabbage, celery, and leeks, all of which should now be growing well. It is not wise to let all crops develop to full ripeness. Tomatoes can be picked as they colour up. Vegetable marrows and pumpkins will keep quite well under cover when fully grown, which can be ascertained when firm and hard to the touch. Scarlet runner pods can be picked when young for preserving, and this is simply done by cutting into small pieces and adding plenty of salt in the jar. The sweet corn patch can be tidied up by cutting off flowering tops and removing all stalks not carrying a cob. This matter can be chopped - up and added to the compost heap. It is clear the dry season has been favourable to onions, for three wonderful samples have been sent in. From Mr B. J. Cosgriff, of Fendalton, have come two lots—Ailsa Craig, heaviest 260 z, and Californian Red, heaviest 240 z. Mr C. Lee, Ensors road, has sent in a trio of Californian Red, the heaviest weighing 30oz. All these fine onions are shapely, firm bulbs and were grown in good organic soil with no special cultivation, but certainly mark the growers as being above the ordinary. making a lawn This month much activity will be directed to lawn making, and a reference may be timely. Where a crop of potatoes has been taken off new ground, conditions should be favourable as the weed invasion will not be so intense. A good level surface is very desirable and can best be got by frequent raking with its attendant heeling. Any rolling should be followed bv a light raking before sowing the seed, and after sowing, another raking to cover the seed. Allowing rather more n , , one . ou nce to the square yard should give a good coverage, * and should small birds be numerous, a wetting of the seed with kerosene and red lead will ensure safe germination A mixture of chewing’s fescue and brown top makes a fine lawn of bowling green texture. The addition of crested dogstail and perennial ryegrass lowers the cost, and also makes a good lawn with perhaps harder cutting.