PRUNUS VARIETIES GIVE FINE SPRING DISPLAY

Press, Volume XCII, Issue 27753, 2 September 1955, Page 14

PRUNUS VARIETIES GIVE FINE SPRING DISPLAY

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written jor “The Press”) [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.I

Friday, September 1, 1955. There is abundant evidence today of the indifference of shrubs and plants to winter. Spring bulbs are shooting up and early shrubs are budding out into leaf and flower. None gives greater delight than the Prunus moseri, now a dense mass of branches covered with dainty double pink blossoms which seem to have come out overnight. There are at least two other prunus in flower, P. Mume, the Japanese apricot, is a bright cerise, and P. Pissardi, white with dark bronze foliage. These will, shortly be followed by the larger pink flowers of the bitter almond amygdalus Pollardi. These four make excellent subjects for spring positions on the flower border. FLOWER GARDEN

The reputation of Christchurch as the Garden City is built up on the general co-operation of residents, and this is helped by a good genial climate permitting so many unusual shrubs and trees to be grown. The showy magnolias can be mentioned with their large blooms of white and purple? An aristocrat for a prominent position is the Chilian firebush, Embothruim coccineum—and its Australian rival — Telopea oreades. The golden bell tree Forsythia, must not be omitted, for it is one of the best of spring flowering shrubs. Kalmia talifolia and Clethra acborea are good for selected warm positions. Beaufortia sparsa, scarlet bottle-brush like flowers—Ceratostigma, dwarf sky blue, the oleander, pink or red and the Cistus or rock rose, will all appeal to flower lovers. The native Veronicas or Hebes, as they now are called, are coming into favour too. They are dwarfs and give a good range of colours, especially in pinks and purple shades. Azaleas hardly need mention, but should be in every garden. The evergreen Indian type does very well under the shade of deciduous flowering trees. They are termed miniature rhododendrons and are rich in pink, white and red shades. Attention should be given to herbaceous perennials, the class indispensable not only to garden display but for the production ofxmt flowers for the house. Think ofJflie display made by these perennials, rfe/phmiums, kniphona or red hot poker, chrysanthemums, peonies, dahlias, pyrethrums, rudbeckia, helenium, phlox, poppies,, campanulas, arums, Midhaelmas daisy, scabious, and many others. Most of these can now be divided, and where odd clumps have been built up, such division is advisable. They can be divided by the spade or sharp knife. This work is part of the job of tidying .up the borders in readynessfor planting annuals and bedding plants, and it should be hastened. Geraniums can be pruned. This must be regarded as an annual job, for most old stools will be found at the end of winter to consist of many blackened stems with only a few green survivals. Pruning consists of cutting out all the blackened stems, some right down to the base and others into green ends, for it is only from these latter that there can be any worthwhile growth for the season. The blackened frosted stems are unsightly if they are left. Gladiolus can be planted for early flowering. About 100 days from planting is a fair guide. The gladiolus has few enemies and does well with little attention, hence its popularity and few flowers excel it in decorative value. Lawn-making is now in order. Careful preliminary work is all-important. Therefore much time should be put in raking and treading to ensure a satisfactory level. When sowing the seed cover the area with two thirds of the seed, then go back over the ground with the balance reinforcing the barer places. This will ensure a more even germination. Before the final raking to loosen the surface, apply super or garden manure at up to four ounces to the square yard. It is not advisable to roll after seed sowing. With two or three Takings during levelling, the soil will be well l compacted. Raking from two directions should cover the seed from birds but if these are plentiful, red lead on the seed would be advisable.

Prepare ground for sweet pea sowing. While they must have plenty of deep cultivation, it is possible to give too much farm manure. Therefore, see that such is well distributed throughout the digging. On the other hand, compost should be put near the surface. VEGETABLE GARDEN Where the ground was dug over in winter and limed, it should now be in good heart. This would also apply to any area where a green crop had been grown and dug in. In both cases the nitrogen, supply should be sufficient, leaving the main want —phosphate —to be supplied by a dressing of superphosphate under the seed row when sowing. Put this fertiliser down two to five inches according to the crop sown.

Where one is working to a garden line for correct spacing, future results will be pleasing and hoeing made easier. Some idea of crop rotation also should be followed by growing root crops, and potatoes, separate from the taller growing cabbage sweet corn and tomato patches. Early potatoes can be planted; Doubtless some readers have their seed well sprouted and get off to a good start. The only danger is from late frosts in October and November, but earthing up early, on anticipation, should nullify possible damage. Varieties to plant will include Epicure, Cliffs Kidney, Arran Banner, Chippewa and King Edward. Summer spinach, radish, Milan or Snowball turnip, and parsley can be sown. Make the first sowing of peas an early dwarf such as Blue Bantam, Massey, or Kelvendon Wonder, Earlycrop, or Wm. Hurst. Greenfeast will do for the second sowing. Carrot, beet, parsnip, silver beet, broad beans can also be sown. There are select varieties in all these vegetables. Under glass or cloches, dwarf tomatoes can be sown or planted as also can vegetable marrow, pumpkin, cucumber, and Tom Thumb lettuce. Useful kitchen plants which can now be put out include lettuce, onion and cabbage plants, herbs of all kinds, shallots, rhubarb, and asparagus. All these should find places in the garden. The asparagus bed will soon be showing signs of life. Lightly rake over the surface to loosen the winter’s crust of applied manure. Then apply a further dressing of blood and bone manure at the rate of 4oz to each square yard. Salt should not yet be given; it is time enough when the first bud shows through. On-areas reserved for later plantings three inches of good compost, dug in, will be beneficial. FRUIT GARDEN Push on with spraying. Stone fruits are beginning to show growth. This means that the strength of the emulsion applied should be reduced from full dormant strength to that of green, tip. In other words, use lime sulphur at two tablespoonfuls to a gallon of water, or Bordeaux mixture at one tablespoonful to a gallon of water. Apples are later in budding, and the full winter strength of one in 10 can be used. These sprayings are vital to maintain healthy trees. Finish pruning the trees, especially stone fruits. It is wise to paint over all sizeable cuts with tree salve or tar, to exclude the germs of disease. Fruit trees and bushes should be planted, as well as raspberry, boysenberry and grape vines. Given a high fence or good sized wall facing east or north, grape growing can be highly profitable, but calls for the exercise of diligence and attention to pruning spraying and feeding. This is also the tune for grafting apples and pears. Mistakes are sometimes made in

planting an infertile plum, cherry, or pear tree by itself. This leaves little hope of a satisfactory fruiting, because of want of cross pollination. Greengage plum is perhaps the common example, and where this tree is growing by itself little fruit can be expected. The remedy is to plant another English Slum nearby, or introduce sprays of lossom in bottles of water tied into the greengage tree.