LONDON LETTER DIOR’S LATEST DICTATE: A-LINE RULES FASHION

Press, Volume XCI, Issue 27584, 15 February 1955, Page 12

LONDON LETTER DIOR’S LATEST DICTATE: A-LINE RULES FASHION

(From

KEITH EUNSON,

London Correspondent ot “The Press’’}

LONDON, February 4.—What a relief to turn from discussion or tne xibomb and the A-bomb to consideration of Christian Dior s H-line and A-line. Like most of his fashions, these two dictates from the fashion, master have created a stir m Britain. He evolved the H-line last year; and the A-line differs, apparently, in that a flare has been introduced into tne skirt and the belt (the crossbar of the letter A) may be set high or low. The I decision to adopt an evolutionary rather than a revolutionary design this year has meant that those who already 'own an H-line gown need not throw Xt the man who shook the fashion world with the New Look m 1947. His later Short Look provided a mild shudder; but the H and A-line models are likely to change the whole female dressing idea, especially m the climes suited to his plunging necklines. The remarkable Frenchman was quoted as saying that he was “tired of seeing busts behind sweaters, it seemed to go on for years, so I decided to change it.” New Zealand women, especially those in the slightly colder south, are unlikely to adopt his daring heck- I lines; but the general tenor of the design will be adopted in new fashions intended for the Dominion. London shopgirls and office girls are keenly fashion-conscious, and already the new line can be seen on the streets. They read fashion reports, copy drawings, and produce dresses frequently unavailable so soon m leading stores. Show Musi Go On

Stars fall ill, miss their trains, or break a leg; but the show must go on. Irene Hilda, French star of the West End musical show, ‘ Can-Can, last night became ill during the performance and asked her understudy to take over the role in the middle of a scene. The pocket-size French actress had completed a song when she felt she could not go on. She moved across to a table where her understudy was sitting and whispered: “Quick, go and change. I cannot carry on.” Flabbergasted, Joy Turpin, who has the minor role of a laundress in the show, tottered off, made a hasty change, and returned to take the leading role—all within a few minutes. Loudspeakers advised the audience of the change and the new “star" received a burst of applause. Imagining Architecture The New Zealand artist, Felix Kelly, a specialist in portraits of famous homes, has been painting a house in Poland he has never seen. From old engravings and detailed descriptions he has completed a nostalgic study for Prince Stanislas Radziwill showing Nieborow, the Princes boyhood home near Warsaw. It is a vast 17th century house with later additions. Kelly said he had :frequently painted purely imaginary architecture; but it was the first time he had imagined architecture which existed. The house is now a public museum in which the Prince s father still lives—as curator! A Jockey Raconteur

The life story of Britain’s greatest jockey, Sir Gordon Richards, is ready for publication. It will appear in the spring when Sir Gordon Richards returns from his extended holiday in Switzerland. The book is apparently full of “inside stories" of big races, great horses, and leading sportsmen from Royalty to commoners. Sir Gordon Richards became a hero of dukes and the man-in-the-street, and his life story is expected to be a best seller. The serial rights are rumoured to be among the highest paid for this type of book. Sir Gordon Richards has kept voluminous diaries, cutting books, and photographs, and his ability as a raconteur has apparently been given free rein. Ballet Star to Marry The ballerina, Margot Fonteyn, will not be lost to British ballet. Though it has been announced that she will marry Roberto Arias, a 36-year-old South American lawyer, she will remain in Britain and continue her dancing. She first met Arias at Cambridge in 1937 when he was an undergraduate. He was 18, she was 17 —too young to talk about marriage. He returned to Panama City and they did not meet again until 1953, when Miss Fonteyn was dancing in New York and Arias was delegate to the United Nations. They have seen much of each other since. They will be married in Paris next week. Poodles Now in Vogue The canine population in England and the number of men who are seen promenading with dogs on coloured leashes are both sources of never-fail-ing interest. Dogs are allowed to travel on buses and the Underground, and

are frequently seen occupying a seat! In London’s West End, especially the exclusive residential areas, a woman thinks she is not properly dressed unless she has a dog on a lead. This is probably the reason for the top rating at the moment of miniature poodles in the canine popularity poll. One in every four dogs exported (the United States takes half the total) ig 1 a miniature poodle. . Recently, headlines were given to a £ 100 party that a Mayfair hostess arranged for her “darling little doggie” and his canine friends. Cruft’s Dog Show Cruft’s Dog Show is a social event on London’s calendar; and this year the cocker spaniel will be most numerous as it has been since 1938, it will take a year or two before the effect of the neMy-registered minis, ture poodles is felt at the show, at canine popularity is judged by the number of Kennel Club registrations. The chairman of the club. Air modore Cecil Wright, said the dog fancy had become a big industry.’ “n is one of the few things we can claim in this country to be supreme in,” he said. “There is nothing in the United States to compare with Cruft’t, nor is there anywhere else in the world to compare with it.” Royal Naval College The chapel at the Royal Naval College, Greenwich, is being redecorated for the first time in 70 years. The chapel was closed last year for investigation of the condition of its plaster walls and ceiling, and the Ministry of Works has decided that redecoration is necessary. The chapel contains some late eighteenth century wall paintings in the lunettes at either end of the building. The original chapel was built by Ripley to the designs of Wren, but in 1779 the interior was destroyed by fire. Its restoration by Stuart followed broadly the Wren design, but the detail was done in the neo-Greek manner for which he was famed. A National Book Sale It has long been the custom of book shops to sell old stocks at reduced prices, but this year United Kingdom booksellers have banded together with wholesalers and publishers to arrange a national sale of books and to sell them during an agreed period at any price “not over two-thirds of the published value.” From February 16 to 26, every reputable bookseller in Britain will display signs advertising this sale. Publishers are giving generous terms to help towards the success of the sale, and are offering recent books. One or the surprises of publishing this year has been the announcement of a reprint of Professor Toynbee’s “A Study of History.” as the last four volumes were severely criticised by the reviewers. Ten thousand copies of each volume were printed, and it was expected that this number would last for two or three years. It has Jbecome necessary to reprint within three months. Royalty on Television The Earl of Harewood became the first member of the Royal Family to broadcast over television. Though he is a cousin of the Queen, he is not a sufficiently close relative for negotiations to have been necessary between the 8.8. C. and Buckingham Palace. Lord Harewood, who married a commoner, is known for his interest in music. He is an assistant to the general administrator bf the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden. A confident, easy speaker, Lord Harewood was an immediate success on TV. He devoted the early part of his programme to discussing opera, and then had an informal interview with Michael Tippett, tfho wrote the recently controversial opera. “The Midsummer Marriage.” Right-hand Bule A Danish Automobile Club official told me last week that attempts were being made by his organisation to have Sweden change from left-hand to right-hand driving. Denmark and Norway have the right-hand system, and both countries feel that Sweden would reduce its accident rate by falling in line with its neighbours. Success of Film World A New Zealander, Margaret Thompson, is a success in the British film business without having appeared on the screen. She is an expert with children, and selects and trains juveniles for screen work. She was responsible for discovering Vincent Winter, the child star in “The Kidnappers," recently found two more youngsters for a comedy, VOne Good Turn.” She discovered Keith Kilman, a seven-year-old snub-nosed little chap, in Wales, and Maiorfts Fender, a coloured girl, in London’s East End. Miss Thompson said the children quickly took to filming, and after a few days in the studio the greatest difficulty was keeping them away from the limelight. Miss Thompson is the acknowledged expert in handling children for films in Britain, and her talent has been used in many productions.