CONQUEST OF EVEREST

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 27165, 8 October 1953, Page 9

CONQUEST OF EVEREST

Controversy Over Tensing’s Part FRENCHMAN’S BOOK AGAIN RAISES ISSUE (Special Correspondent NJZPJL) IjONYIQiN, October 5. A book by a French journalist has started a new storm over Britain’s, victorious Everest expedition, with the Sherpa, Tensing Bhotia, as its centre, says a special correspondent of the ‘‘Sunday Express.” The book, which has been published in Paris, claims to be Tensing’s own story of the climb a s told to the journalist, Yves Malartic.

Called “Hie Conquest of Everest,” it says that the British climbers and the Sherpas hated each other.

The book quotes Tensing as saying of Sir Edmund Hillary: ‘‘We got on well because he is a New Zealander, and doesn’t come from Britain. Sir Edmund said to me: ‘When it is midday in England it is midnight in my home. When it is winter in England it is summer in my country. That is why we rarely get along with the British.’ ” The book says:

(1) “There was a great argument among the Sherpas, who were unwilling to win Everest for the Queen. (2) “The Swiss and the French treat the Sherpas on the basis of complete equality as regards food, clothing and equipment. That is not so with the British. After the victory the sahibs were smiling. They did not hesitate to say a few kind words to the victorious Sherpa, but they reassumed their condescension as at the beginning, and their grand airs of patriarchal superiority. (3) “When the expedition arrived in Nepal the sahibs were astonished to feel the hostility surrounding them. Everywhere they heard talk of Tensing.. They were furious in their turn, and Colonel Sir John Hunt lost his head. He was tired: that was evident. ‘Damn them,’ thought the colonel furiously. ‘These natives are impossible. Now they want to rob us of Everest.’ ” “Certain Steps” Commenting on these statements, Sir John Hunt said in London: “I am a very good friend of Tending, and do not wish to say anything that would disturb that relationship. I have heard of the book and I understand the Himalayan Committee of the Royal Geographical Society may take certain steps in connexion with it. I, personally, do not wish to make any comment.” Mr Eric Shipton, the leader of several Himalayan expeditions, said: “I knew Tensing as a young man, and have always been friendly with him. I am surprised and shocked by this book, but I have little doubt that some, innocent remarks he may have made have been twisted.” In Paris, the author, Malartic, said: “I saw Tensing in Switzerland and spent two hours and three-quarters with him. Tensing speaks English quite well, but he misses many words. I also speak-English quite well, but could not understand all that Tensing said. Indian diplomats helped me with my translation.” In Berne, a diplomat who helped to look after Tensing said: “Malartic came to Berne to try to get Tensinfc to sign a contract. Tensing had no intention of doing so, and spent 15 minutes only with the man and turned him down.

“The only other time this journalist could have met Tensing was very briefly at a reception at the Indian Legation when hundreds of people were present.’’