GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 27058, 5 June 1953, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES

T. D. LKHNIE, A.H.R.I.H.

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NJS.J

Friday, June 5, 1953. I should imagine that quite a lot of good garden cleaning up will have been done over the last weekend; if not, the opportunity to catch up on routine jobs may not recur. Weeds in particular make remarkable growth in all weathers, and are notoriously free-seeding. No chances should be taken with them. Other jobs needing attention will be apparent. Now that chrysanthemums have passed their best, stems should be cut off and composted. Other good compost material can be got by pruning the hydrangea flower clusters, which are now rattier weatherbeaten. At the same time, much pruning-out of long shoots can be done. Pruning of shrubs and hedges is now due. With most shrubs, the aim should be to improve the shape—few of them need spurring as for fruit trees. Take the tops off over-tall shrubs, and where one is too thick or out of balance, remove the offending branch. Hedges are a different proposition. They are grown mainly as a screen or to give shelter, and compact thick growth is desired. Ibis can only be got by close attention from the time of planting, especially in side clipping to induce soft growth. The winter clipping should be more drastic than the December one. Old hedges that have got too wide may be cut hard back on one side now, especially in the case of evergreens like privet, laurel, or lonicera. Macorcarpas should not be trimmed past the green fringe, as they will not break again from the old boughs.

Gladiolus corms in store will be helped by a dusting of naphthalene to discourage thrips and slaters. Soaking the corms in a formalin or colloidal sulphur bath is also advised. Plants for the border —apart from bulbs, and lilies—should provide for an early summer display. Myosotis, polyanthus. Canterbury bells, sweet William, and Iceland poppy are all suitable. Half-hardy plants like gazania and arctotis, should have a paper or cloth covering on frosty nights. Many people are in doubt whether to lift their dahlia roots. It depends entirely on the ground they are in. If well drained they may be left, but if in a position likely to be saturated during the winter, the roots should be lifted and stored under cover frbm frosts. In a shed where they will not dry out, or in boxes under a macrocarpa hedge, they should be safe if covered by sacking. Of course the names should be secured to the flower stumps. VEGETABLE GARDEN Ground for early /potatoes ’can be prepared. Sprout potatoes in shallow boxes under cover. Seed rows of onions and carrots should be weeded. , Plant cabbage, lettuce, garlic, and shallots. Plant rhubarb in well-manured soil. Trench ground for next season’s root crops.

Lime and sawdust are useful aids to use now. All vacant spaces can be limed at the rate of 4ozs a square yard, and sawdust can be spread afterwards to a depth of an inch or more. This plan can be recommended for the ground under the fruit trees also.

The asparagus bed should have had its winter dressing of manure or compost. Rhubarb roots should be treated in the same way. It ofteng seems to me that New Zealand spinach is not sufficiently appreciated as a winter vegetable. Although perhaps not suited to all positions, it gives a quick growth of young shoots to make an appetising dish, and will grow anywhere. This spinach, Tetragonia expansa, is a lowgrowing herb found growing in seashore places from Stewart Island northwards, it is stocked by most overseas seed firms as far away as Denmark and Germany, and deserves more attention in its homeland. FRUIT GARDEN

Look over stored fruits for decay. Strawberry planting should be hastened. Pruning can be commenced: start with stone fruits, gooseberries, and currants.

Spraying can be commenced when the leaves have fallen. It is important to dig in all fallen leaves, mummy fruits, and small prunings. There is no question about the order of this—spray first, then prune. Then the fallen pieces will have less chance of overcarrying disease germs. Stone fruits should, be sprayed with lime sulphur or bordeaux; pip fruits with both lime sulphur and red oil in the order stated. It is emphasised that the winter spraying is all imnortant if fruit free of disease is to be got. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT “Daphne” Shirley.—The yellowing of the leaves of your daphne is very common at this time of year, and is often a cause of worry. It results from soil and weather conditions more than disease. Plants growing on a hot, dry border too near the house, facing north or east, will show these yellowing leaves freely. Blame the arid con-' ditions of last summer and the possibility of a limy soil