GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 27011, 10 April 1953, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) (By T. D. LENNIE, A.HJU.H., N.Z.] Friday, April 10, 1953. FLOWER GARDEN Most people will now be reconciled to the impression that summer work and summer display are drawing to a close, and are possibly thinking of a drastic clean-up of the garden. Something of the sort should be done by removing spent growth of perennial phlox, sunflower, and other border plants. Another point is that ground work of this nature is not so attractive under wet, cold conditions, but weeds are not deterred by these factors. To prevent them from seeding, it is important to make a good job by removing all weeds.

The greatest change to be recorded since last week has been the undoubted arrival of autumn conditions —meaning colder weather, and a more or less wet soil. This is apparent in the rapid and - profuse shedding of foliage of deciduous trees. These leaves are of great value for compost making, and where possible/should be raked up and so used. Sweet peas can be sown. Plants for transplanting can be put out into wellmanured soil. Chiysanthemum buds are swelling fast. Disbud to terminal buds on each shoot, and water weekly with liquid manure. It is wasteful to let the plants carry large numbers of these buds that can never become useful flowers. It is better to pinch them out now and secure a good flower on a long stem. Make sure also that the plants are well staked as protection against windy storms. Gladioli can be lifted after cutting stalks off just above ground level. This stage is reached when the foliage begins to yellow. Let them dry outside, out if rain threatens it would be wiser to take them under cover pending a regular cleaning. Lilies are an essential part of the garden, either for the borders or for the woodland. Old clumps of several years’ standing can now be lifted for replanting at spaced intervals. Clumps of half-a-dozen bulbs can be planted between shrubs or deciduous trees. IGnds suitable for this are auratum, tiger, regale, Henryi or pardalinum. The good drainage and peaty earth that they need are often found in these positions. Lily collecting is fascinating, and there are now plenty of good, hardy varieties that are easily grown. The old stems of most lilies can be cut off a few inches above the ground. Spring bulbs can be planted. Variety is great in this useful section. They not only fill the border with bright colour at a lean period of the year, but give a wealth of very attractive flowers for indoor use. With anemones, ranunculus, hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, ixias, iris and jonquils heading the list, what a source of joy are these spring-flowering beauties. The end of the summer sporting season ushers in the work of lawn topdressing. This is done to restore levels, and impart fertilising manures needed to replace a depleted soil. Manures for this purpose should be long-lasting and slow in action, such as superphosphate, bonedust, and potash. New lawns should be sown without delay so as to get good growth established before the frosty nights of winter come along. GROWING BULBS IN JARS

Growing bulbs in glassware or jars used to be very pouular. The Chinese developed the practice to a surprising degree, and built up quite an export trade in specially-prepared narcissus bulbs, and were able to do this on a limited scale right through the war. Their chosen variety was the wellknown Grand Monarque polyanthus flowered, which naturally grows a large bulb. The culture is simple, as only a suitable bowl, with water and stones, are required, the stones being there to stabilise the bulbs. The English fashion ran to growing hyacinths in narrow-necked vases without stones, and this flower lends itself admirably to this simple culture. It is necessary only to keep the bulbs in semi-darkness until some growth has been made. . VEGETABLE GARDEN

Tomato growth should now be entirely stopped by nipping out side shoots and flowers and by picking fruits as they colour for ripening indoors.

Onions, shallots and garlic should be put under cover and roped for hanging. Savoys, Brussels sprouts, and other winter greens should now be developing. Remove lower leaves only, loosen the soil round them, and keep dusted with Derris to control grubs. It is important to use this dust every fortnight or bo, as young grubs are always hatching out and the treatment is vital while the plants are growing. If you intend doing anything in the way of green manuring, the patch intended for next season’s potato or root crop, it is important to sow at once in order to get the maximum of growth, for bulk of green matter when digging in is very necessary. Barley, oats, or mustard will be the best crops to sow. Potatoes can be dug. Further space is thus gained for the green crop. Seeds to sow include onion, lettuce, early cabbage, winter spinach, parsley, turnip, and broad beans. These are all important where space exists, but if the area is small, make a choice, with onions as the No. 1 priority. Sown now, they will develop hard, firm bulbs when growth finishes next February. BARREL POTATOES The overseas claim that a crop of potatoes can be grown in a barrel of prepared soil has not been justified in my case. My attempt last year was an absolute failure. This year, with the correct formula, I had better results, but not superior to the ordinary row planting. As a test, I planted an identical Chippewa tuber alongside the barrel, in similar soil, and the difference* in weight of the two sets was only Jib, with the same number of tubers—l 6 at each root. They were of excellent size, with no small ones, but a long way short of being a heavy crop. The weight was only 61b a root. I wonder if any other barrel growers have sensational crops to report.