GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 26970, 20 February 1953, Page 11

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press”) [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., NJZ.J Friday, February 20, 1953 FLOWER GARDEN Sweet peas are now making a gorgeous show, and will continue to do so for some weeks, provided the y flower stems are removed, for the formation of seed means a quick ending of the quality display. The period for sowing sweet peas for a spring show is near at hand, and the question of site may be difficult in gardens with limited space, because the place where they are now growing may be the best or only site available. That being so, the seeds ’ may be sown in boxes or small pots, and the seedings transplanted during winter dr early spring. Roses are in need of special attention this season, largely because of , the vagaries of the weather since last winter. Mildew, black, spot, dnd rust, with later die-back, have all combined i to make foliage yellow and fall off, and to cause branches to dife. It- would be wise now to go over the bushes, cutting out all dead pieces and fifiished flower stems; then spray, using either lime sulphur or a bordeaux combination. As a further precaution, gather and burn all yellow-spotte'd foliage. ** Bulb lifting time has arrived. This applies to all the spring flowering ones, much as tulips, narcissus, crocus, hyacinth, • sparaxis, freesia. iris, ixia, and early flowering lilies like candidum, regale, and umbellatum. Most can be replanted, straight away, or stored for several weeks if necessary, of course in a cool shelter. Lifting for replanting means giving greater space between bulbs, with a consequent improvement in flower values. Cuttings of many plants can now be taken and planted in boxes of sandy compost. Carnations, pulled off with a heel attached, hydrangeas, fuchsia, and geraniums—not too young or tender —should all root quickly now, especially if dipped in a hormone rooting powder. All leaves should be taken off except the top cluster. For frost free areas, tender plants like gazania, arctotis, and double petunias can be propagated in the same way. The layering season is about over. If you have a favourite carnation, this is the best way to increase your stock. This is a good time to renovate the rockery and fill up vacant spaces by new plants or offsets from existing ones, for most of them increase easily by division. Variety can be given by planting bulbs such as crocus, snowdrops, sparaxis, babianas, tritonia, freesia, hoop petticoat narcissus, and that beautiful little thing, the Italian cyclamen, which does quite well in a cool rockery pocket. It is quite a good time to sow flower seeds—either annual or perennial—and it should be done where increased supplies of good things are wanted. This applies to quality strains of pansy, carnation, poppy, polyanthus, delphinium, primrose, primula, schizanthus, cyclamen, etc. VEGETABLE GARDEN Vacant spaces will now be show- '• ing, though in limited areas. It is true ; that early peas and potatoes are about [ finished, but in orderly gardens, the spaces occupied by these crops would . be filled by leeks, savoys, celery and ■ other essential winter vegetables. . Where spaces occur, the ground may ; usefully be sown in a green- crop, such ! as cape barley, lupins or oats. ; In most gardens throughout the ■ summer, there is a large amount of , green waste matter, with household t additions and lawn clippings, that . should go into compost making and I still leave a lot of woody, fibred stuff ■ and seedy weeds for the incinerator. ■ I personally burn all such and get a lot of fire ash to add to the compost boxes with sawdust and lime.

The harvesting of shallots, garlic and onions will soon be possible. When the latter are full sized, bend over tops to hasten ripening. Marrows and pumpkins growing well should have the points cut off when a fruit has formed. Keep the hoe going between crops. This is important. It controls weeds and assists moisture content of the soil. During a dry spell, hose the plants and dust suoer or bone meal along the rows. Should aphis be noticed on carrot and parsnip tops, spray with nicotine sulphate. Put an inch-deep layer of sawdust between the rows of vegetables. It will prevent \evaporation of surface moisture, and soon rots into the soil. Lawn clippings can be used for the same purpose. Early cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce for early winter planting out should now be sown. It takes about eight weeks for the seeds to develop to planting stage. Other seeds for present sowing include parsley, perpetual spinach, silver beet, turnips and New Zealand spinach. Early planted celery and leeks can have a light earthing up to keep them erect. Both need moisture, so should have water applied in dry weather. If it can be given as a liquid manure, or with a good sprinkling of fertiliser, so much the better. Tomatoes are making much top growth, and much of this, with all side shoots, should be cut away. The plants will not. have time to develop all the flower clusters they are now carrying, so why not concentrate on building up the existing crop? FRUIT GARDEN Spray cherry and pear trees for black slug; use arsenate of lead with a full dessert spoon to the gallon of water. Raspberry canes will benefit from the same spray. Dead growths on all trees and shrubs should be cut out. Doing so is helpful to the trees. Continue summer-pruning of apples and pears, particularly on unfruitful trees. Shorten laterals to about four leaves. An alternative method is to pass a flexible wire twice around the stem — firm, but not cutting in, and leave it on for a month. I know of several cases where this wire binding has been effective the next season. It has the effect of checking thq upward flush of sap, and results in the formation of fruiting buds. Thin out much old wood of black currants. It will be found to be afflicted with currant borer, indicated by black-lined interior tunnels. Woolly aphis is bad on some apple trees. Paint out the clusters with white oil or methylated spirits. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT Taylor’s road, Bryndwr.—Many thanks for your interesting account of the progress of your barrel potato. It agrees largely with my own, which is also growing in a box with slotted side openings, but your six feet haulms are exceptional. I would say this is because you have half-a-dozen tubers growing in the same container. The original scheme provided for one seed tuber only, so that crop results could be more fairly gauged. However, I shall be glad to know your results after digging.