GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 26538, 28 September 1951, Page 10

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for "The Press.")

IBy T. D. LENNIE. A.H.R.1.H.. N.Z.] Friday, September 28, 1951 FLOWER GARDEN

Among the lovely spring flowering trees now out, I should pick Magnolia soulangeana as the most impressive. A fine specimen is now flaunting its pink and white egg-size blooms in Papanui road. Magnolia is hardy anywhere in New Zealand. There is still time to plant flowering shrubs, but the advent, of spring should warn intending planters to hasten this work. Rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas, camellias, callistemon, acacias, abutillons and lawn conifers are all suitable.

Conditions will be suitable for putting out bedding plants. Lobelia, 10week stocks, petunias, wallflowers, antirrhinum, nemesia, Livingstone daisies, Iceland poppy, viola, and pansy can all be safely planted. Do not be in a hurry with tender things like verbena and marigolds. Gladioli should be planted. They are unequalled for border display and for cutting. They look best planted in clumps of three or five bulbs towards the back of the border. Do not make the soil rich with strong manure. A handful of blood and bone to each clump should suffice. Take the opportunity soon of thinning out tangled climbers. If they are left to themselves for a few years, a mass of untidy growths result. This growth should be reduced bv cutting out much old dead wood, and replacing efficient young strands on the supports. Herbaceous perennials should form the backbone of border display for summer and autumn. Some indispensibles would include delphiniums, blue scabious, michaelmas daisy, coreopsis, gypsophilas, bleeding heart, iris, heleniums, and rudbeckias. Some consideration should be given to height and spread of bedding plants, and not too mu-h mixing should be done, Iceland ponpy, petunias and carnations are excellent for back row or massing, with lobelia, ageratum, alyssum and Livingstone daisy for front row or edging. It will also be a busy time for those wishing to sow flower seeds, for almost all kinds can now be attempted. It is the ideal way of getting ample stocks of any preferred kind. Lawn-making can be pushed on. Seed sown now on ground carefully prepared should go ahead with vigour. On weedy, couch-ridden areas, the wise alternative is to put in a potato crop and sow the lawn down in April, Cultivation of the crop will eradicate most of the weeds dominant in the surface.

Early flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering, when future shaping should follow. This applies to Forsythia, prunus, flowering apple, and, later on, cherry and brooms. VEGETABLE GARDEN Almost all kinds of vegetable seeds can now be sown, especially the root crops and indispensible salad vegetables, for these will soon be much in demand. Radish, mustard, cress, and parsley should be planted, with a row of lettuce and cabbage. With the first early peas showing through, sow a row of Kelvedon Wonder, Greenfeast, or Onward. About three weeks between sowings should provide a succession of pods. In suitable positions sweet corn and celery can be sown, also marrow, pumpkin, cucumber, squash, French beans and scarlet runners.

Silver beet and perpetual spinach are first class for quantity use. If they are sown now, useful supplies will be available all through next winter.

Early or main-crop potatoes can be planted. Of the latter class, Arran Banner, Aucklanders, Chippewa, and Inverness Favourite are recommended. Rows should be at least 2ft Sin apart with 12in between sets. Tomato plants may be put out provided some measure of protection is given on frosty nights. As a rule mid-October is early enough for outdoor planting. This is one crop that good compost will make successful. Give compost even to the extent of one good spadeful to each plant. FRUIT GARDEN

Spraying must be deferred on stone fruit trees in flower or showing pink. It is better to wait until the petals have fallen, when the fight against fungoid diseases can be continued. Apple trees not in flower can be sprayed, using red oil at one in 20, which is one pint to 24 gallons. For walnut disease, it is not too late to spray lime sulphur, three tablespoons to the gallon. Pruning of walnuts must not now be done, or the trees will bleed freely. Finish planting fruit trees and prune them back when they are in position. Vine pruning and spraying should now be finished, for growth will soon appear.