GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXV, Issue 25994, 23 December 1949, Page 2

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press") [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.IJL, N.Z.I Friday, December 23, 1949. FLOWER GARDEN During the next fortnight many will be leaving home for a more or less long spell, with the prospect of leaving the garden to take care of itself. In other cases the holidays will permit close attention to garden problems, for much can be done in a full couple of days’ attention. What, then, are the pressing problems? First and foremost the destruction and hunt for weeds. Is it not extraordinary how these prosper and develop after a spell of moist weather, such as We have had lately? It is imperative that weeds be pulled before reaching the seed stage, when most can be. added to the compost bin. In compost, do not be content with xnainly garden rubbish. Variety is needed, and. this can be gained by using lime, sawdust, animal manure, wood ash, household residues, etc., in addition to a good watering now and then. Spaces on the borders can be filled with suitable plants such as petunias, asters, stocks, verbenas, phlox, marigolds, and Livingstone daisy. Dahlias can be planted. So can gladiolus. Both will make a good show during February and March. This is a good time to sow out of doors many hardy flowers that are needed for the border display of next spring and summer. They can be sown in short rows in the vegetable garden thinly, and transplanted to their flowering quarters in autumn or winter. Wallflower, beauty stocks, antirrhinum, and Iceland poppy will be flowering in winter, while carnation, pansy, polyanthus, delphinium, hollyhock, dianthus, lupins, sweet william, primula, primrose, and scabious will follow and continue the display right through next -summer. It will be a great advantage to have supplies of any of these to plant out, for when they are ready there will be plenty of gaps on the borders, or a new scheme altogether can be thought out. At this season there is a not unnatural tendency to allow a good many things to go their own way, for want of a tidying up, but this easy-going attitude may lead to much trouble later, and be a source of failure meantime. Many early flowering subjects grow with great rapidity and many smother adjoining plants of lesser habit;-others, such as aubretia, cerastium, pansy, and viola, will occupy quite a spot of ground and give little show for the balance of the season. These sprawling plants should be trimmed back to the central young shoots. Then spread some fine manure or fertiliser round them, and so build up strong growths, for next season. Taller growers offend even more seriously. Such important plants as phlox, Oriental poppy, peony, delphinium, oxeye daisy, hnd Michaelmas daisy can cover a lot of ground and become very untidy if allowed free growth. Secure them to stakes early and better flowers on straight stems should result. Especially to those going away for a time does this apply, for high winds can play havoc with plants unprepared to resist them. Some annuals are liable to become something of a nuisance by over-seed-ing themselves. Larkspur, poppies, and calendula are some in this class, and should be pulled up when seeds form. Do not overlook the importance of staking tall-growing plants such as lilies, phlox, Michaemlas daisy, chrysanthemums, and hollyhock, or they may be flattened out when you return. Removing spent flowers will lengthen the display of roses, sweet peas, antirrhinums, and gazanias. If needed for scent making, the blooms can be picked daily for drying. Be on the lookout for leaf-eating grubs. One such, a leaf miner, is visible on cineraria, clianthus, and chrysanthemum by the tunnel markings on the leaves. Not much can be done except finger

pressure to kill the little grubs; and spraying nicotine. Hollyhock leaves showing numerous rusty spots on the back should be *cut off and burned. It starts on the bottom older leaves. Holes in geranium leaves will reveal the presence on the back of the leaf of green looper grubs. Hand picking is good or a free dusting of Derris. They will get increasingly common as the summer goes on. VEGETABLE GARDEN One job that should not be delayed is the weeding and thinning of beet, carrot, turnip, parsnip, and silver beet. Growing these too thickly in the young stages is not good for shape or quality. Main- , tain a good salad supply by sowing lettuce, radish, mustard, and cress. The final sowing of peas can be made. Choose an early variety such as English Wonder, Massey, or Greenfeast. Stake earlier sown when nine inches high, and provide stakes or ties for runner beans. Both these crops need water, and plenty of it, with an occasional overhead syringing. As legumes they draw heavily on the atmosphere for a carbon supply and manufacture their own nitrogen supply. Tie tomatoes to stakes early and keep the single rod going by pinching out small stem growths. Spraying the cluster with the hormone “Fruit-fix” will ensure a much heavier setting of fruit. Watch for signs of potato blight on leaves—dark patches. Bordeaux is a good preventive. , With every prospect of a plentiful supply for the summer, attention should now be given to planting up for winter, for with these early planting is most important. Winter savoys, kale, and broccoli, brussels sprouts, celery, and leeks should be put out as soon as the ground is available. Planted before*mid-January they will be successful—more so if the work is done now The celery trench should be well manured and dug over. Leeks can be grown well on the flat, but also must have a rich soil or manure or compost. Cease cutting asparagus now. Weed the bed. stir up the surface, and allow all stems .to grow for the present. Growing cabbage plants should be protected from moth grubs by dusting derris or spraying arsenate every fortnight. Moisture will be helping the young carrots, but make sure by spraying nicotine or katakilla. FRUIT GARDEN Many blind canes will be evident on the raspberry patch due to stem borer of last season eating out the eyes. These same stems will also probably be found coated near the ground with red scale. Cut out and burn these. Where the canes were sprayed with arsenate a month ago, this year’s crop of grubs would be thinned out, and the job completed by spraying again when the crop has been gathered. Grape thinning should be done early. Cut out first small and under-sized fruits and others to prevent a crowded bunch. It is no loss to remove up to half a big bunch, as those left will grow all the bigger. Routine spraying can be done—arsenate of lead and Bordeaux on apples and pears for codlin moth and mildew, Bordeaux on stone fruits and roses. Go carefully on the strengths to be used, as given on containers, as over-strength may be harmful to foliage. Woolly aphis on apples is best dealt with with red oil jabbed on with a little brush. CARE OF POT PLANTS The ball of soil inside the pot quickly dries up, as evaporation takes toll all around it. Therefore, if going away for a ■ time, soak the plants in a bucket of water and stand in the washtub or similar cool place. In the greenhouse that is. of course, not possible, but shading in the roof will help, such as by spraying whiting on the outside. Few plants should have to go longer than three days without watering.