GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXV, Issue 25709, 22 January 1949, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.RJJI.. N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN All spring flowering bulbs are now quite dormant and any desired treatment can now be given them. If left to themselves too long, natural increase makes it impossible for the bulbs to do well and inferior flowers follow. As a general rule three to four years is the maximum period narcissus and similar bulbs should be allowed before lifting and replanting. After that period the bulbs will be found crowded with numerous small ones. The present is a good time to start lifting and drying them. Replanting can be done right away or the bulbs may be boxed for storing in the shed. When replanting grade them by size, planting the small ones either at the end of the large ones

or in a separate bed by themselves. Where eelworm has to be dealt with by the hot water treatment, now is a good time to do it. The formula is three hours at a temperature of 110 degrees. Other spring bulbs in a similar category are grape hyacinths, freesias, fritonias, ixias, and Dutch iris. These all make very rapid increase under good conditions, so that the future display will suffer if a replanting of the larger bulbs is not done now and then. Lilium candidum, the Christmas lily, is also due for attention now if desired. It is at its lowest period of growth in January, so that lifting and replanting can be done mow. , For best results give this fine lily a good open position and a cool, deep sou. Dryness in the summer is to be avoided. It will help appearances to go over the borders removing finished plants, such as Canterbury bells, dianthus and larkspur with flowering stalks of many perenrtials, to prevent seeds forming. This will help rebuilding and some will produce a second flowering in the autumn. Suckers on the roots of standard roses may be common and should be removed by stripping off top soil to bare the junction and pulling it off. Cutting off under the ground means more suckers later on. Hollyhock rust is very disfiguring. It carries over on the old leaves infecting new ones as they are made. Therefore the older spotted ones should be cut off and burned after which a spraying with lime sulphur at two tablespoonfuls to a gallon of water will be helpful. But be careful if the plants are beside the house as lime sulphur will spot the paint. Stake the tall growing plants such as Michaelmas daisy and chrysanthemum. With good sized clumps two or three stakes looped round with binder twine is easy and effective. Dahlias also are worth similar attention. Gaps in the border can be filled for autumn flowers. Iceland poppy, asters, zinnias and marigolds are some that will appeal. Beauty stocks for late autumn and Brompton stocks for flowering in spring, can also now be planted.

VEGETABLE GARDEN The recent weather has been splendid for planting winter greens and this work should be hastened. While savoys, leeks and celery should be the essentials for most gardens, other things are invaluable where space can be found for them. Brussels sprouts have a unique appeal in the early spring but have to be grown hardily to eliminate greenfly. Broccoli, white and purple sprouting, curled kale, and winter cabbage will give added supplies through a till October. Keep a closl watch on tomato and late potato growth as present damp, warm conditions will favour infection by potato blight. Dark markings on the foliage can be viewed with suspicion. Even if very healthy, all plants should be sprayea as a precaution. Tie stem to stakes as they grow up and pinch off small side shoots and yellowing lower leaves. Plant Lettuce for succession and sow carrot, beet, spinach, silver beet, Parsley, radish and early cabbage. Pinch off tops of runner beans at support heights to induce formation of side ones. All growing plants will benefit from a light spread along the rows of either super or garden manure. Tomatoes should have a potash watering after fruit formation at one oz. to the gallon. This will correct any chance of blotchy ripening.

FRUIT GARDEN Strawberries are subject to two bad pests—leat spot and aphis. Both will ruin the foliage, so that if your plants are showing brown leaves in plenty get busy with the sprayer, using Bordeaux and nicotine respectively. Either can make a mess of a once healthy patch. All fruit trees carrying a crop should be given a good with liquid manure or the dry fertiliser spread around under the branches and watered in. . ... After doing any pruning on these trees be sure to paint over cut ends with tar or thick grease, to prevent entry of silver or fire blights.

WILTING DISEASE The symptons of this, disease are not discernible until betrayed by a yellowing of the foliage, loss of vigour and death of the plant. It will be found that the stem at ground line has become hard and shrunken with the result thatno sa P rise up from the roots. The remedy must be applied before planting to destroy the soil germs latent thereirf, and this requires the application by water of a soil sterilizer, such as formalin, or disinfectant solution. Many plants are liable to infection, the worst being tomato, zinnia, stocks, asters, and nemesia.